PLANTING SMALL FRUIT. 89 



pretty sure of a stand. One person cati do a very good job alone with 

 a common dibble, but it is slower and I do not like the work as well. 



Mr. Sw.an: If any man should come into my field and offer to plant 

 raspberries with a spade, I would send him home. You can't plant rasp- 

 berries in that way. They have such fine roots. I used to plant 

 strawberries with a spade, but some of the roots would stick out on top 

 of the ground. I never could get anything to grow ih that way. As 

 we all know, the best way is to get down on your hands and knees and 

 do it. I would plant strawberries four feet apart. I have for the last 

 few years been setting out a number of young apple trees and I have 

 planted strawberries right along in the rows and they did fine. This 

 fall I planted the Senator Dunlap and planted them a foot apart in the 

 row and about five feet in width. Next year I will get more berries 

 than before. As long as I plant young apple trees I shall plant straw- 

 berries there. 



Mr. Harrison: I believe that about ninety-nine raspberries out of a 

 hundred that are planted die. My idea is that they are planted loo deep 

 generally. I am glad that Mr. Christy touched on that subject. 



Mr. Christy: Mr. Swah's trouble in planting is not in putting in the 

 plants right. Of course it is better to get down on your hands and 

 knees. I have had success in that way, of course. One row would be 

 all right, while the next row would not be of any account. I have an 

 idea that Mr. Swan's plan is all right. 



Mr. "Williams: I agree with Mr. Harrison, of York, that a large 

 per cent, I don't want to say hardly ninety-nine out of one hundred, are 

 lost by transplanting, but a large number. I don't think the trouble 

 is with deep planting. I like deep planting, but I would plant four inches 

 deeper than the tip. The trouble is with the average man, even with 

 some commercial planters, say nothing about the farmer, who generally 

 fails to plant them with reference to that matter. The old wood or part 

 left on is a mere handle, as I call it. They don't recognize the princi- 

 ples of planting. You know or should know how the raspberry plant is 

 formed, with the bud proper from the nodule, right at the crown or 

 the junction of the old stem and the root, and that is the life of the 

 raspberry plant. The average planter, I think, takes that stem as a 

 nodule and sticks in the ground, plants it six inches below the top of the 

 ground and allows the nodule to come from those stems. I always cut 

 away the new growth and let the plant start in the spring from the old 

 stem which appears from the tip. The bud is right at the junction, 

 close to the stem. I plant four inches deep. I dig a sort of a basin so as 

 to allow the new bud to get a start and then it comes up all right. 

 According to my experience, there is no better time to plant than when 

 the new tip has formed and a new growth of three or four inches. If 

 I go to a bed and take up a plant of three or four, six or eight inches 

 growth, I can protect that young sprout and can see it and can handle 



