FORCING BULBS 81 



glass by the florists of these countries, that individual would probably 

 have surveyed his informer with awe. 



Twenty years ago it was not uncommon to hear a florist remark that 

 there was little or no money in forcing bulbs, and that opinion still pre- 

 vails to some extent among growers with small establishments. Be that 

 however as it may, I shall not discuss this phrase of bulb growing at 

 this time, for the steady yearly increase in the importation of these little 

 tubers into our country is sufficient evidence in itself that they have at 

 least found a wanii place in the hearts of the American flower buying 

 public. Such being the case it is up to the American florist to procure 

 the best stock possible, and to put it on the market in the best possible 

 condition that he may realize a reasonable profit. It is usually along 

 about the middle of September that we receive our first consignment of 

 bulbs, which is usually the florists' friend. 



The paper white narcissus which if given half a chance and as much 

 good judgment, will be in continuous crop from Thanksgiving until Easter. 

 At this time wo also receive the Roman hyacinths, which on account of 

 the demand for long stemmed flowers has of recent years lost much of 

 its popularity, but a few of these delicate fragrant white flowers can 

 be used very profitably through December, and January, as they force 

 quite easily in ordinary greenhouse temperature. 



About a month later we shall begin to receive our Dutch bulbs, and 

 by the first of November we shall have received our entire consignment of 

 bulbs. Having received our supply of bulbs we must prepare trays or 

 flats of a convenient size to be easily handled, three or four inches in 

 depth in which we place the bulbs in a good rich soil about half an inch 

 apart, and press the soil firmly about them covering them entirely; this 

 done, we dig a trench throwing out about three inches of soil, which 

 will give us plenty with which to cover and then place the boxes in rows 

 so that they will be easily labeled with a good long label which will reach 

 well above all covering which they will need as the winter comes on. 

 When you have them all in place give a good thorough watering making 

 sure that they are wet to the bottom for this will have a great deal to 

 do with your future success in forcing them into bloom. It is a good plan 

 to let them stand for twelve to twenty-four hours before covering with 

 dirt, and then examine to see if they are wet to the bottom, then cover 

 with two or three inches of dirt, and add your litter only as you have to, 

 to keep away a hard freeze. This may be followed for narcissus, tulips, 

 daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and so forth. 



Cases of narcissus may also be placed in a good cool cellar where 

 they may be kept well into the new year, before boxing which may be 

 done from the potting bench and then placed in a cool house or beneath 

 a cool carnation bench while some prefer to box hyacinths and later pot 

 them from the boxes. I think perhaps it saves time and they do just 

 as well to place them in pots and bury them with the rest of your bulb 

 supply. It is quite easy to bring paper white narcissus and Roman 

 hyacinths into bloom for Christmas, and narcissus may be had for Thanks- 



