254 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 



somewhat resembles a large black raspberry. The Early Harvest is the 

 best early blackberry, is a good bearer, quite free from rust and com- 

 mands a good price in the market. 



April and May are the best months in which to plant blackberries, 

 although they can be planted in October and November with fairly good 

 success. One must not be surprised if the plant does not begin to grow 

 immediately after being set out. We must have patience with all kinds 

 of plants and trees and not expect them to start leaf growth soon after 

 being planted. Sometimes growth does not begin on the blackberry for 

 nearly a month after planting, and yet if the ground is kept well culti- 

 vated shoots will probably spring up from the roots and make a vigorous 

 growth. The first year after planting I grow potatoes or some quick 

 maturing corn between the rows of my blackberries which does not injure 

 the plants, and at the same time practically pays for all the expenses. I 

 use the hoe freely and plow with a two-horse cultivator. Late in the 

 fall, before the ground becomes too wet, I throw earth well up to the 

 plants to prevent heaving out during the winter, and also leave furrows 

 to drain off surplus water. The second and following springs I work 

 the space between the rows shallow until the fruit is well advanced, 

 thus counteracting to a very great extent the effects of a dry season. 

 Blackberries bear their fruit on summer shoots arising from winter buds 

 on one-year-old wood. After a cane has borne one crop it dies, and is of 

 no more use to the plant. Its place is taken by new canes which will bear 

 the next year's crop. 



The pruning of this fruit consists of four distinct operations; first, 

 removing suptrfluous shoots from the base of the plant, so that there 

 will not be too many canes in a hill; second, summer nipping of the 

 remaining shoots, to induce a stocky growth and a strong development 

 of laterals; third, heading back these laterals the following spring; fourth, 

 cutting out the old canes after they have borne their crop of fruit. The 

 proper number of shoots for a hill will vary somewhat with the variety, 

 but in general will be from three to five. The shoots wnich are not to 

 be left to produce canes should be removed as soon as they start, so that 

 the strength of the plant may go to those that remain. When the shoots 

 have reached a height of eighteen to twenty-four inches they must bo 

 nipped back. This operation consists in simply pinching off or otherwise 

 removing the growing point or tip of the shoot. It can be done with the 

 thumb and finger or with a pair of sheep shears. It is especially im- 

 portant that the shoots be nipped wlien they reach tlie height above 

 mentioned, instead of being cut back to that height after growing beyond 

 it. A long cane with all the laterals near the top is likely to lop over 

 nearly or quite to the ground when laden with fruit, unless it is given 

 some artificial support. If the shoots are nipped at the proper time, that 

 is, when they have reached a height of eighteen or twenty-four inches, 

 they will develop into strong, stocky canes, well supplied with strong 

 laterals, and, in the case of most varieties, capable of holding up the 

 fruit without the aid of artificial support. As to tools, sheep shears can 



