GROWING FANCY STRAWBERRIES 263 



have not much choice. Many are under the impression that sandy soil 

 with a southern exposure is the only place where strawberries can be 

 grown, but this is not so. While it is true that sandy soil is usually 

 easier to work, j^ou can grow just as fine specimens on the stiffest clay 

 soil, for I have grown them there myself; and although the slope or 

 exposure may have more or less effect on the growth of the plant or 

 berry, I do not consider it of nearly as much importance as some growers; 

 but I would not plant on low, swampy land if a higher place was 

 available, on account of the greater liability of damage by frost on the 

 low land, for we all know that cold air, like water, will go down hill. 



An ideal soil is usually a clover sod that has been planted with corn 

 or potatoes and followed the next spring with strawberries. The clover 

 furnishes the humus that is needed for best results, and if possible, plow 

 late in the fall. But if you can't plow in the fall, plow as early in the 

 spring as possible, and before setting plants roll and harrow until the 

 soil is fine and compact. 



When setting out plants, we use a line instead of marking for the 

 reason that a mark is liable to dry out, and we want our plants in moist 

 soil always. 



We have our rows four feet apart and set plants three feet apart in 

 the row. On rich soil plants set this distance will get too thick for 

 best results, if runners are allowed to grow unrestricted. Plants should 

 be at least one foot apart for largest berries. We use a trowel to set 

 with and always shorten the roots to about four inches. It takes time, 

 but I like to have a handful or two of rotten manure mixed with the soil 

 under each plant. All blossoms must be kept off the first year. Cultivate 

 or hoe often. After plants start to grow, we scatter a good grade of 

 commercial fertilizer around each plant and hoe it in. 



When the runners start growing, they should be placed where you 

 want the plants. A stone or clod will hold it in place until the plant 

 takes root. After you get sufficient plants, runners should be kept off 

 the balance of the season. In July or August cover the ground between 

 the plants with rotten manure to the depth of two or three inches; the 

 object of all this is to get as large individual plants and crowns as 

 possible. This is about all that is necessary until time to cover them 

 for the winter. 



For winter covering there is nothing better than straw horse 

 manure put on three or four inches deep. When growth starts in the 

 spring, remove litter from over the crown of the plant; we then scatter 

 nitrate of soda around the plants and again when they are in bloom, 

 and we also use liquid manure around the plants once or twice a week. 

 Of course to get the largest berries a good share of the fruit buds must 

 be clipped off. 



I can not tell you which varieties will do the best for you, as few 

 varieties do well every place. I have tested perhaps one hundred 

 varieties, but for main crop never grow more than two or three. 



Some of the older varieties still give my largest specimens. The old 



