2B8 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



PRUNING THE ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. 



J. J. THORNBEK, IN BETTER FRUIT. 



There are few ornamental trees or shrubs that do not require occa- 

 sional pruning or trimming at one season or another for their best 

 growth and development. The extent of this, with certain exceptions, 

 however, is often quite limited, and in this respect ornamental plants 

 differ from fruit trees. Pruning is usually given too little attention by 

 the amateur planter and home-maker, with the result that the task is 

 put off as long as possible to be finally disposed of with little or no 

 forethought at one "fell stroke," as it were, of the ax or saw, regardless 

 of results. 



It goes without saying that all newly set trees should have their 

 branches cut back to correspond with the loss of roots incident to trans- 

 planting, though this does not mean that such trees are to be reduced 

 to poles. At planting time all mutilated parts of roots should be re- 

 moved, and on trees that are of considerable size, i. e., eight feet or so 

 high, the main limbs should be cut back within twelve or fourteen 

 inches of the trunk, the leader, of course, being retained. A sufficient 

 number, varying with the kind of tree, of the more vigorous of these 

 main limbs are left to form the framework of the crown. These should 

 be disposed at nearly equal angles about the trunk, and not lie in 

 the same horizontal plane. If handled in this manner such trees as 

 ash, locust, mulberry, cottonwood and sycamore will need litle further 

 attention for some years, and will usaally develop into pleasing, sym 

 metrical forms. When small trees are used considerable pruning is often 

 needed in first few years after planting on account of excessive growth 

 through climatic conditions, cultivation, enriched soil or extra water 

 supply. This growth commonly manifestes itself in water-sprouts, over- 

 development of the head, causing top-heaviness and leaning, or in extra 

 growth in occasional vigorous branches in one part of the plant or 

 another, all of which tend to destroy the otherwise natural form or 

 symmetry of the tree, unless corrected by careful pruning. The much 

 planted and justly popular pepper tree is a notable example of the 

 above, due partly to its soft, yielding wood. On this account, during its 

 first years, cutting back and thinning out of the crown is necessary 

 in addition, to- secure bracing of the trunk. 



It is justifiable at times to resort to topping in the case of shade 

 trees to induce a denser growth, or where trees have become too tall to 

 be in harmony with their surroundings, though this latter condition is 

 not common in our region of extremely strong light, and sometimes 

 scant supply of plant food. Such pruning, however, should be done with 

 deliberation as to effects desired. Dead or unhealthy branches, or those 

 broken by storms should be removed speedily, and if necessary the re- 

 maining top or crown reduced sufficiently to insure reasonable uniformity 

 later. Slow growing or unhealthy trees are often encouraged to make 



