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sphagnum firmly about the roots. Either one of these methods 

 gives good results. 



Forcing the tree peony. — The tree peony has been forced for 

 many years by the Chinese, who use a very natural method. The 

 plants are grown in the cold northern part of the Empire, and 

 after they have had a season of rest (which Fortune points out 

 is so necessary to the success of the tree peony) they are packed 

 without soil in baskets and transported hundreds of miles to the 

 south. Upon encountering the warmer climate they begin to grow 

 as soon as planted. After they have flowered the plants are dis- 

 carded, as it has been found to be unprofitable to try. to keep the 

 plants over in such a warm climate. 



In England and France considerable attention is being paid to 

 forcing the tree peony. The following is what I consider the best 

 method of forcing: In the early fall, as soon as the summer's 

 growth has matured, plunge the plants in large pots and bank them 

 in coal ashes in some out-of-the-way cold frame. Let them freeze 

 for a few weeks. Take them up about the last of November and 

 set them first on the floor of the cool house, and gradually raise 

 the heat. They will flower nicely at 55 to 60 degrees after about 

 six weeks of forcing. The double kinds are much the best for 

 this purpose, because the flower lasts so much longer. After being 

 forced, the plants must be rested for two years before being forced 

 again. It is quite likely that etherization would shorten the forcing 

 period. 



It seems that nothing much has as yet been done on forcing the 

 herbaceous peony. We know of no good reason why this should 

 not be forced with as great success as the tree peony, but I have 

 been unable to find any literature upon this subject, except an early 

 article by C M. Hovey, 1837, from which I quote as follows: 

 " Herbaceous peonies force very well, and where there is a green- 

 house and plenty of room and a quantity of spare roots, a number 

 of plants may be potted. The only labor is to put two or three 

 good tubers with a prominent eye attached into a No. 6 pot of 

 rich, loamy soil in the month of October. From this time till 

 January the plants may remain in a cool place, free from frost, 

 when they should be taken into the greenhouse, and set in a cool 

 rather shady situation, but where they will have the benefit of the 

 fresh air admitted to the house ; this will prevent their being drawn 

 up, and a fine display of blooms will be the result. After the 

 plants have flowered, the roots may be planted in the border, where 

 they will recover their strength." 



