THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. 675 



successive infusion occupying a rather longer time. It will be easily- 

 understood that Avine thus prepared costs less than very small beer, 

 though its retail selling price may be regulated by the " etiquette " 

 or label (from which I suppose our word ticket is derived) that is 

 finally pasted on the bottles. 



The special bouquets and curious flavors demanded by connoisseurs 

 can be more easily added to mixtures largely composed of these 

 second and third runnings than to simple grape-juice having its own 

 grape-flavor, just as the juniper-flavor is more easily added to " silent 

 spirit " than to whisky or cognac. We may thus obtain a clew to the 

 mysterious fact that the market is well supplied with wines bearing 

 the names of celebrated vineyards, of which the whole produce is 

 bought by special contract by certain Continental potentates. Many 

 of these chateau vineyards are so small that they can not actually pro- 

 duce one tenth of the wine that is commercially derived from them. 



XLVII. — THE COLORING OP WINE. 



Some years ago, while resident in Birmingham, an enterprising 

 manufacturing druggist consulted me on a practical difliculty which 

 he was unable to solve. He had succeeded in producing a very fine 

 claret (Chateau Digbeth, let us call it) by duly fortifying with silent 

 spirit a solution of cream of tartar, and flavoring this with a small 

 quantity of orris-root. Tasted in the dark, it was all that could be 

 desired for introducing a new industry to Birmingham ; but the wine 

 was white, and every coloring material that he had tried, producing 

 the required tint, marred the flavor and bouquet of the pure Chateau 

 Digbeth. He might have used one of the magenta dyes, but as these 

 were prepared by boiling aniline over dry arsenic acid, and my Bir- 

 mingham friend was burdened with a conscience, he refrained from 

 thus applying one of the recent triumphs of chemical science. 



This was previous to the invasion of France by the phylloxera. 

 During the early period of that visitation, French enterprise being 

 more powerfully stimulated and less scrupulous than that of Birming- 

 ham, made use of the aniline dyes for coloring spurious claret to such 

 an extent that the French Government interfered, and a special test 

 paper, named (Enokrine, was invented by MM. Lainville and Roy, and 

 sold in Paris, for the purpose of detecting falsely-colored wines. The 

 mode of using the O^nokrine was as follows : " A slip of the paper 

 is steeped in pure wine for about five seconds, briskly shaken, in order 

 to remove excess of liquid, and then placed on a sheet of white paper, 

 to serve as a standard. A second slip of the test-paper is then steeped 

 in the suspected wine in the same manner, and laid beside the former. 

 It is asserted that T-gV,o-oTr of magenta is sufiicient to give the paper 

 a violet shade, while a larger quantity produces a carmine red." With 

 genuine red wine the color produced is a grayish blue, which becomes 

 lead-colored on drying. I copy the above from the " Quarterly Jour- 



