THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. 677 



established, and the demand far exceeding the possibilities of supply 

 from the original source, other and resembling wines are sold under 

 the name of the celebrated locality, with the bouquet or a bouquet 

 artificially introduced. It has thus come about, in the ordinary course 

 of business, that the dearest wines of the choicest- brands are those 

 which are the most likely to be sophisticated. The flavoring of wine, 

 the imparting of delicate bouquet, is a high art, and is costly. It is 

 only upon high-priced wines that such costly operations can be prac- 

 ticed. Simple ordinary grape-juice — as I have already stated — is so 

 cheap when and where its quality is the highest, i. e,, in good seasons 

 and suitable climates, that adulteration with anything but water ren- 

 ders the adulterated product more costly than the genuine. When 

 there is a good vintage it does not pay even to add sugar and water to 

 the marc or residue, and press this a second time. It is more profit- 

 able to use it for making inferior brandy, or wine-oil, huile de marc, or 

 even for fodder or manure. 



This, however, only applies where the demand is for simple genu- 

 ine wine, a demand almost unknown in England, where connoisseurs 

 abound who pass their glasses horizontally under their noses, hold 

 them up to the light to look for beeswings and absurd transparency, 

 knowingly examine the brand on the cork, and otherwise offer them- 

 selves as willing dupes, to be pecuniarily immolated on the great high 

 altar of the holy shrine of costly humbug. 



Some years ago I was at Frankfort, on my way to the Tyrol and 

 Venice, and there saw, at a few paces before me, an unquestionable 

 Englishman, with an ill-slung knapsack. I spoke to him, earned his 

 gratitude at once by showing him how to dispense with that knapsack 

 abomination, the breast-strap. We chummed, and put up at a genuine 

 German hostelry of my selection, the Gasthaus zum Schwanen. Here 

 we supped with a multitude of natives, to the great amusement of my 

 new friend, who had hitherto halted at hotels devised for Englishmen. 

 The handmaiden served us with wine in tumblers, and we both pro- 

 nounced it excellent. My new friend was enthusiastic ; the bouquet 

 was superior to anything he had ever met with before, and if it could 

 only be fined — it was not by any means bright — it would be invalua- 

 ble. He then took me into his confidence. He was in the wine-trade, 

 assisting in his father's business ; the " governor " had told him to look 

 out in the course of his travels, as there were obscure vineyards here 

 and there, producing very choice wines, that might be contracted for 

 at very low prices. This was one of them ; here was good business. 

 If I would help him to learn all about it, presentation cases of wine 

 should be poured upon me forever after. 



I accordingly asked the handmaiden, " Was fur Wein ? " etc. Her 

 answer was, "Apfel Wein." She was frightened at my burst of 

 laughter, and the young wine-merchant also imagined that he had 

 made acquaintance with a lunatic, until I translated the answer, and 



