THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. 78 1 



The separation of these jellies is an operation of cookery, and one 

 that deserves more attention than it receives. I shall never forget 

 the rahat lahoum which I once had the privilege of eating in the 

 kitchen of the seraglio of Stamboul, in the absence at the summer 

 palace of the sultana and the other ladies for whom it was prepared. 

 Its basis was the pure pectose of many fruits, the inspissated juices of 

 grapes, peaches, pineapples, and I know not what others. The sher- 

 bet was similar, but liquid. Well may they obey the Prophet and 

 abstain from the grosser concoctions that we call wine when such am- 

 brosial nectar as this is supplied in its place ! It is to imperial tokay 

 as tokay is to table-beer ! 



The " lumps of delight " sold by our confectioners are imitations 

 made of flavored gelatine. Similar substitutes are sold in Constanti- 

 nople. The same as regards the sherbet. 



I conclude this part of my subject by re-echoing Mr. Gladstone's 

 advocacy of the extension of fruit-culture. We shamefully neglect 

 the best of all food, in eating and drinking so little fruit. As regards 

 cooked fruit, I say jam for the million, jelly for the luxm'ious, and 

 juice for alL With these in abundance, the abolition of alcohol will 

 follow as a necessary result of natural nausea. 



XXXVII. COUNT KUMFORD AND THE BAVARIAN BEGGARS. 



I must not leave the subject of vegetable cookery without describ- 

 ing Count Rumf ord's achievements in feeding the paupers, rogues, and 

 vagabonds of Munich. An account of this is the more desirable, from 

 the fact that the " soup " which formed the basis of his dietary is still 

 misunderstood in this countiy, for reasons that I shall presently state. 



After reorganizing the Bavarian army, not only as regards military 

 discipline, but in the feeding, clothing, education, and useful employ- 

 ment of the men, in order to make them good citizens as well as good 

 soldiers, he attacked a still more difficult problem — that of removing 

 from Bavaria the scandal and burden of the hordes of beggars and 

 thieves which had become intolerable. He tells us that " the number 

 of itinerant beggars of both sexes, and all ages, as well foreigners as 

 natives, who strolled about the country in all directions, levying con- 

 tributions from the industrious inhabitants, stealing and robbing, and 

 leading a life of indolence and most shameless debauchery, was quite 

 incredible"; and further, that " these detestable vermin swarmed every- 

 where, and not only their impudence and clamorous importunity were 

 without any bounds, but they had recourse to the most diabolical acts, 

 and most horrid crimes, in the prosecution of their infamous trade. 

 Young children were stolen from their parents by these wretches, 

 and their eyes put out, or their tender limbs broken and distorted, in 

 order, by exposing them thus maimed, to excite the pity and commis- 

 eration of the public." He gives further particulars of their trading 

 upon the misery of their own children, and their organization to obtain 



