I9I4 



BETTER FRUIT 



Page 25 



I HAVE PULLED 

 3000 STUMPS 



Bid Pacific Coast Stamps, ALONE, 

 witlioat norses, powder or digging, vritb fl 



U\^yy HAND-POWER 



'^ STUMP PULLER 



I KNOW you can pull your slumps with the 

 *K." cheaper, quicker and better than with 

 any other known device. 



WEIGHS ONLY 171 LBS. 



One man easily handles— made of Krupp 

 steel; can't breaker eet out of order. Simple, 

 compact, developinc enormous power. Pulls 

 any stump that 1-inch steel cable will hold, 

 200 feet steel cable and all equipment in- 

 cluded. Works anywhere. Used by 

 U. S. Gov't in Alaska and by sev- 

 eral states and counties. 

 Too can ina[(e (25 land frorlb 

 &200 an acre in spare lime vrork. 

 Write today forcalalojr showing 

 aaual photographs of the "K" 

 in use and special 1 

 money-aariDg o^er. 



; W. J. FITZPATRICK | 



Box S. 1926 2d Ave. 

 Seattle, Wash. 



old trees, provided I grow them myself 

 and can transfer them directly from 

 the nursery to the orchard without 

 being compelled to have them packed 

 and shipped. Two-year-old trees are 

 easily injured. When one-year-old 

 trees are used the large three to four- 

 foot grade is the best. On larger trees 

 the lower buds are small and weak and 

 frequently no limbs start low enough. 

 The one-year-old trees should be cut 

 off from twenty-four to thirty-two 

 inches from the soil; cutting at this 

 height gives room for three permanent 

 scaffold limbs and the leader from six 

 to eight inches apart. Duiing the first 

 growing season no pruning is neces- 

 sary, except the buds may be rubbed 

 eight to ten inches from the ground. 

 They are frequently rubbed off too 

 high. 



Second Year (trees one year from 

 setting). — The pruning just before the 

 second year's growth starts is the time 

 to select the limbs that are afterward 

 to form the main scatTold limbs. It is 

 important to avoid crotches at this 

 pruning. If nothing but crotches de- 

 velop, cut all the branches out and 

 leave the center leader. During the 

 second year the dormant buds below 

 will be forced out and will make strong 

 branches at a larger angle from the 

 leader. I wish finally to have three 

 main scaffold limbs leading from the 

 main body arranged in a whorl from 

 six to eight inches apart on the main 

 stems, but I frequently leave four and 

 five branches at this time, the lowest 

 one ten inches to a foot from the 

 ground. The excess branches arc to be 

 cut out the third or fourth year. Never 

 allow the main limbs to issue from the 

 same i)oint. The selected limbs should 

 be pruned back from one-half to two- 

 thirds of their length. The central 

 leader should be left from six to ten 

 inches longer than the others. If there 

 is a prevailing wind leave the limb to 

 the windward a little longer than the 

 other limbs. 



Third Year (trees two years from 

 setting). — In regions where the wood 

 growth on young trees is large, the tii)s 

 of the new growth can be cut olf the 



latter part of June or the first of ,Iuly. 

 (This should be done early enough to 

 give time for branches to make good 

 growth and mature their growth.) 

 Where this is successful a tree with a 

 more perfect balanced head in a 

 shorter period is obtained and almost 

 a year is gained by the practice. It can 

 be repeated again the fourth year, but 

 seldom after that. When this is prac- 

 ticed the three-year-olds are pruned 

 like four-year olds and four-year-olds 

 like five-year-olds. This is the only 

 summer pruning I advocate for young 

 trees, and it is not really pruning, for a 

 very small part of the tree is removed. 

 Choose from two to three limbs which 

 have formed on each scaffold limb and 

 leader and remove all others. Cut back 

 about one-third of growth, care being 

 taken to avoid crotches. 



The F"ourth Year (trees three years 

 from setting). — Choose from two to 

 three limbs which have formed on 

 each of the branches left the third year 

 and remove all others, excepting a little 

 of the weak wood growth low down 

 on the trees. Cut back less than one- 

 third of the growth. Cut out all but 

 three scaffold limbs. 



Fifth Year (trees four years from 

 planting). — The first process should be 

 the same as the fourth year, except 

 more of the weak branches should be 

 left in the lower part of the tree to 

 furnish early-bearing wood, to be re- 

 moved after it has served its purpose. 

 When a tree becomes four years of age 

 the cutting back should be stopped and 



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only such of the limbs as grow stronger 

 that the rest should be cut back; also 

 such trees as have too thin tops should 

 be cut back sufficiently to make them 

 stocky and rebranch to make the nec- 

 essary amount of bearing wood. When 

 cutting back is done, to avoid a tree 

 throwing out a number of sharp forks, 

 the cuts should be made only to small 

 side limbs. 



Kitchen Most Important Room in Farm House 



[Omce of Information, Unilcd St.ites Department of Agriculture] 



THE importance to the farmer of 

 having an economical farm house 

 has been emphasized by the farm archi- 

 tect of the Department of Agriculture, 

 who states that the mental and physical 

 fitness of the laborers, both within the 

 house and in the fields, are vitally af- 

 fected by the building that aflords the 

 family shelter. The average American 

 farm house has failed to share in the 

 unprovemenls that are every day being 

 made in agricultural conditions and, 

 according to the architect, is a rebuke 

 to our boasted civilization. Relatively, 

 he says, the housewife of a century ago 

 with her fireplace cooking antl log 

 cabin was better provided for than is 

 the housewife today. 



The most important building on a 

 farm is the home. The health, comfort 

 and happiness of the family are de- 

 pendent upon its construction and 

 equipment, and unless these matters are 

 looked after the sanitar>' dairy barn or 

 the economically constructed buildings 

 for stock are of little value. Hapiiiness 

 and contentment in the family are as 

 essential to efficient service as im- 

 proved tools and outbuildings, Al- 

 Ihough the housewife spends, in many 

 cases, a lifetime in her "workshop," 

 tlie kitchen and the family rooms, she 

 is not, as a rule, capable of planning a 

 house in the highest degree serviceable 

 and comfortable wilhout assistance. 

 Her help, however, is essential to the 



farm architect, as the result of his 

 plans most vitally concerns her. 



In 1910 a Western farm paper, at the 

 suggestion of the Department of Agri- 

 culture, conducted a competition for 

 farm-house plans. About (IHO plans of 

 farm houses were submitted, not one 

 of which was fully satisfactory. The 

 larger number insisted on some par- 

 ticular i)et notion and emphasized a 

 single feature to the neglect of other 

 important ones. The men and women 

 who familiarize themselves with the 

 work to be done and then apply them- 

 selves to the single task of devising 

 means are the ones who, with the co- 

 operation of the farmers and their 

 wives, can best handle the farm-house 

 problem. One of the most important 

 details regarding the avei'age .Vmerican 

 farm house is that it must be inexpen- 

 sive. The average annual net income 

 of a farmer today, after deducting five 

 per cent interest on his investment, is 

 something less than .$100. This does 

 not mean that the houses may not be 

 attractive. They may, if intelligently 

 planned with the help of vines, shrubs 

 and trees, become the pretliest sjjofs 

 in the landscape, and more beautiful 

 and inexpensive than the crowded city 

 houses. The leiiant-house problem is 

 growing in importance, as can be seen 

 from the fad liiat the number of rented 

 farms increased by more than 324,000 

 during the last decade. Today little 



