algae, shield the window side of the tank with green cloth, green 

 tinted cellophane, or transparent varnish. 



Draughts or other causes of sudden temperature changes should 

 be avoided. For that reason set the tank back from the window, 

 if possible, with a radiator between. Where the room thermostats 

 are set for low evening and week-end temperatures the aquarium 

 should be equipped with a suitable heater and thermostat. A 60- 

 watt heater will heat a 30-gallon aquarium. 



AQUARIUM SUPPLIES 

 These supplies can be obtained in nature. Certain native plants, 

 stones covered with the moss Fontinalis, and various assorted stones 

 and medium coarse sand can be found outdoors. However, if you 

 are in a hurry it is best to get these accessories in a pet store. In 

 fact, as a general rule the plants YaUisneria, Sagittaria and Elodea 

 do best if they are aquarium grown. Incidentally, they are the most 

 important oxygenators of the aquarium and are also distinctly 

 ornamental. 



Other incidentals include a five-foot piece of rubber tubing for 

 siphoning off the sediment, a razor-blade holder for scraping algae 

 off the glass, and — very important — a glass float ring to prevent 

 food from floating away from the customary feeding place. Most 

 important, do not fail to have a glass lid. 



AQUARIUM PLANTING 

 The sand should be from % to i ^2 inches deep on the bottom of 

 the tank, and preferably shallowest near the front. Thus the sedi- 

 ment collects at the front where it will be noticed and can be 

 readily siphoned off. 



The following plan of planting a tank designed for such aquatic 

 animals as fish, tadpoles and newts must be modified if adult rep- 

 tiles and amphibia of many sorts are to be kept, by filling about 

 one-half of the bottom area with rocks and moss to a height above 

 the water level. 



Plant YaUisneria and Sagittaria in the back corners of the tank, 

 carrying the planting forward and toward the middle very spar- 



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