48 - VOYAGE TO THE 



to distinguish them from the Indians, whose intel- 

 lectual qualities are frequent subjects of animadversion 

 amongst these enhghtened communities. They are 

 governed by an alcalde, and have a chapel of their 

 own, at which one of the priests of the mission oc- 

 casionally officiates. 



About eighteen miles from Santa Clara, the party 

 alighted upon the banks of a limpid stream, the first 

 they had seen in their ride. It w^as too favourable a 

 spot to be passed, and placing some milk and pears, 

 which had been furnished by the hospitable priests at 

 the mission, under the cool shade of an aliso-tree, they 

 regaled themselves for a few minutes, and then re- 

 sumed their journey. At the distance of eight 

 leagues from Santa Clara, they passed some remark- 

 able hills near the coast named El ojo del coclie ; 

 and a few miles further on, they descended into the 

 plain of Las Lldgas, so called from a battle which 

 took place between the first settlers and the Indians, 

 in which many of the former w^ere wounded. Stop- 

 ping towards the extremity of this fertile plain at 

 some cottages, named Ranchas de las animas, the 

 only habitations they had seen since the morning, 

 they dined upon some jerk beef, which, according to 

 the old custom in this and other Spanish colonies, 

 was served in silver dishes. Silver cups and spoons 

 were also placed before our travellers, offering a singu- 

 lar incongruity with the humble wooden benches, that 

 were substituted for chairs, and with the whole ar- 

 rangement of the room, which, besides the board of 

 smoking jerk beef, contained beds for the family, and 

 a horse harnessed to a flour mill. 



Leaving Llano de las Llagas, they ascended a low 

 range of hills, and arrived at a river appropriately 



