CAPTAIN M'cI.URe's DKSrATCHES. 29 



by Banks's Land there was a passage from the Polar Sea. At 4 p.m. 

 passed the Princess Royal Islands with a line breeze ; not a particle of 

 ice to be seen in any direction, w^hich only a month previously had 

 presented enormous floes, and heavy grounded masses lying against their 

 base and upon the shoal connecting them, which we considered had been 

 there for years, and likely to remain for many more ; even the huge 

 pieces which had been tlirown upon the eastern shore had vanished ; so 

 that every vestige of that formidaijle element had passed away which for 

 nearly 1 1 months had held us in its trammels. 



Upon the l/th, while near Nelson's Head, with a fine breeze from the 

 south-east, we experienced a heavy swell from that direction, causing the 

 vessel to pitch the hawse-holes under and send the sea as far aft as the 

 fore-hatchway. A circumstance so unusual was hailed as a favourable 

 omen, being a convincing proof that we were in much open water ; and 

 at 11.30 p.m. we rounded the head The land for about 2.5 miles to the 

 westward is remarkably bold and lofty, where Cape Lambton, jetting out 

 and rising perpendicularly 1,000 feet, presents a grand termination to it 

 in that direction ; whence it gradually recedes to the north-west, where 

 it loses this bold character, partaking more of that remarked in the 

 Prince of Wales's Strait, being ranges of hills, gradually sloping from 

 the interior to the shore, having fine valleys and extensive plains, several 

 small, and one considerable river, the water from the latter discolouring the 

 sea two miles from its mouth ; likewise manv small lakes and harbours, 

 which, however, would be only of utility for boats, as a heavy surf was 

 breaking across their entrances. Much driftwood strewed the beach, 

 and the land was well covered with verdure, upon which were large flocks 

 of geese feeding, while ducks were flying in great numbers, and I have 

 little doubt that a walk a short distance inland would have discovered 

 herds of deer and musk oxen. Nothing that was on the coast could 

 escape observation, nor could anything be more favourable for the object 

 we had in view, as, with a fair wind and fine clear weather, we ran along 

 it from one to two miles distant. 



At 4 p.m. of the 18th, being off a very low spit of sand (Point 

 Kellett), which extended to the westward for about twelve miles in the 

 form of a horseshoe, having its seaside thickly studded with grounded 

 ice, while the interior was exempt from any, I sent Mr. Court (second 

 master) to examine it, who reported an excellent and commodious har- 

 bour, well sheltered from N.W. to south, carrying five fathoms within 

 10 yards of the beach, which was shingle, and covered with driftwood. 

 A set of sights was obtained, and a cask containing a notice was left 

 there; its position lat. 71" 56' N., long. 125" 29' W. From this the 

 land turns abruptly N. by E., and a great change takes place in its 

 general aspect, generally becoming low and flat, so that near the beach 

 it is scarcely discernible, resembling separate sand-banks, but, upon 

 closing it, a low spit, barely above the level of the water was remarked 

 connecting them. The lead may be considered as an infallible guide 

 along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are regular from 3 to 

 30 fathoms, at from one to four miles off shore. 



Upon the morning of the 19th we left this low coast, and passed 

 between two small islands lying at the entrance of what appeared 

 a deep inlet, runuhig E.S.E,, and then turning sharp to the 

 N.E. It had a barrier of ice extending across, which prevented 

 any examination. Wishing to keep between the northernmost of 



