Mountain Journeys 151 



last, towards evening, another dhoolie was ready, and I could get into it 

 .... I have not recovered from the effects of the rarified air on the 

 pass of Hannoo. My heart beats violently and irregularly, and when 

 I breathe, I have severe pains in my chest. My distaste for nourish- 

 ment is so great that I can hardly touch any food all day long. 

 (P. 378.) 



August 14, crossing a sort of a pass, near Ghia: 



I have suffered from a very painful headache, but have felt no 

 nausea, although I recognized my old enemy, the bootie, the fatal 

 moss of Ladak-Oojar. When I walked fifty steps to pluck a flower, 

 the throbbing of my heart increased terribly, and repeated doses of 

 digitalis have not quieted its hasty and violent beating. I do not 

 know any sensation that is more alarming and more painful than this 

 exaggerated action of the heart. None of my servants felt any ill 

 effects .... 



I reached Zurra at sunrise. I am completely prostrated by my 

 splitting headache, although I have escaped nausea, and that is the 

 only consolation I have in my sufferings. (P. 397.) 



August 18, camp at Choomoreeree, at a height of 14,794 feet 

 (4510 meters) : 



I passed a miserable night, and this morning I am sick and 

 exhausted. I had to remain thus half the night, absolutely incapable 

 or breathing in a horizontal position; my heart beat violently with 

 terrifying palpitations. I was really afraid of dying in the dark .... 



In the evening, we camped at an elevation of nearly 15,000 feet. 

 I have the greatest difficulty in breathing, my chest seems loaded with 

 an enormous weight which oppresses me painfully. These distressing 

 sensations increase at nightfall. (Vol. Ill, p. 13.) 



August 20, camp at the foot of the pass of Parung, at about 

 17,000 feet (5180 meters) : 



A terrible height in which to pass the night under a tent, when 

 one suffers from the rarity of the air as I do. Oppression in the chest, 

 extreme difficulty of respiration, frequent spitting of blood have left 

 me no rest during the last sixteen hours .... The cold is intense .... 



At daybreak, I feel better, although I cannot breathe freely, and 

 although the slightest movement distresses me .... My head has 

 almost recovered, and since my courage has returned, I have decided 

 to cross the pass .... To go on horseback is impossible, to walk ?.s 

 impossible too; I am riding a yak. (P. 19.) 



Strange thing, that although this pass is the highest our travel- 

 ling lady has crossed, she has little trouble there; no nausea, only 

 a slight headache (P. 26). Moorcroft estimates it as at 19,000 feet 

 (5790 meters), and Mistress Hervey goes to 20,000 feet (6095 

 meters). She is naturally amazed at this result: 



