The Weekly Florists' Review. 



315 



ROSE NOTES. 

 The American Beauty. 



[Contlmu'il Uvni last wi-.k.l 

 I never use any imvnuie water before 

 spring, but lil<e to put on a tliin mulch 

 of old well-rottoil manure as soon as the 

 benches are cleaned of weeds and the bed 

 is watered all over. This is not us'ed as 

 a stimulant, but to prevent the soil from 

 iUying out too quickly. About November 

 I give a mulch and then generally no 

 more till the end of January or the lirst 

 ])art of February, and one more mulch- 

 ing after that. X use manure water , 

 freely from January on until the plants 

 iu-e discarded, but do not believe in feed- 

 ing before Jan. 1. 



Deformed or undeveloped flowers are 

 the result of weakness of the plant or a 

 check in its growth. The last may be 

 due to the plant's being too dry or too 

 wet, or from cold draughts, fumigating, 

 and various minor causes. In fumigating 

 we must keep in mind that when the 

 plants are tall and the buds close to the 

 glass they will naturally get more smoke 

 and more of that dry heat so injurious to 

 roses than when of the same height as 

 the other roses. Many buds are thus 

 crippled when in the first stage of de- 

 velopment, and th'e best treatment can 

 not entirely restore them after once re- 

 ceiving a serious check from any cause. 

 The result of a check is often not notice- 

 able in th'e appearance of the plants, 

 but when we begin to cut deformed flow- 

 ers we are set to speculating as to the 

 cause. Though the roses may have had 

 the best of attention for som'e time past, 

 there was a cause, and it may date back 

 several weeks or more. 



I aim to keep the temperature at .58 

 to eo degrees at night. At 60 degrees 

 1 put a crack of air on, and would prefer 

 to keep some air on all the time if pos- 

 sible. During the day I give them 65 

 to 66 degrees with steam heat and no 

 sun. On bright sunny days, 70 to 75 

 degrees, according to the temperature out 

 of doors. Never open the ventilators 

 much when the air outside is very cold. 

 A small crack will admit a lot of air 

 luid'er such conditions. 



The plants and benches should be al- 

 ways kept clean of decayed leaves and 

 no rubbish should ever be thrown under 

 the.benehts. Tying should never be neg- 

 lected. Each branch should be tied sep- 

 arately to the wire in such a way that 

 it will not interfere with the others 

 when th'e flower is cut. 



Beauties can be grown with good suc- 

 cess for two years and many think they 

 are better the second year than the first. 

 When this is so it is no doubt due to 

 tlie fact that the plants are older and 

 stronger, and this conlirms my belief in 

 early'planting of the young stock. We 

 want strong bushes before winter sets in. 

 In growing Beauties the second year I 

 find it best to dry them off and let 

 the wood ripen thoroughly. I dry them 

 oft' gradually and am careful not to allow 



Ihfl bark to shrivel, syringing hard oc- 

 casionally to keep red spider down; it 

 takes about four weeks to do it properly. 

 Old and weak wood is then cut out and 

 the rest cut back to five or si.K eyes. 

 They are then taken up in a dry state, 

 with about a 6-inch ball of soil and re- 

 planted in a rich soil. A basin is left 

 around each plant and the plants have 

 to be well watered several times to get 

 the dry ball thoroughly saturated. After 

 this they need very little water till they 

 start to grow. The watering must be 

 done Very carefully for overwatering will 

 result in almost entire loss. The first 

 growth will not be very long, but it will 

 be much stronger than on young plants. 

 There will also be more branches and 

 the plants should be placed farther apart 

 than young stock. One point in favor of 

 two-year-old stock is you can cut much 

 sooner from them than from one-year- 

 old. After they have once started to 

 glow they will soon overtake young 

 stock that was planted a month earlier. 

 M. Staucii. 



GRAFTING ROSES. 



In answering the questions which arise 

 in the article on "Grafting Roses" in 

 your last issue I wish to state that 

 actually there is no comparison between 

 grafting and budding roses, in accord- 

 ance with my understanding. The proc- 

 ess is entirely different and cannot be 

 made to apply each to the other. Bud- 

 ding is a simple matter that may be 

 successfully accomplished, during the 

 summer months only, by inserting an 

 eye in the bark and binding. The best 

 results are obtained from well devel- 

 oped young shoots in moderately moist 

 soil. It can be done both in and out- 

 doors while grafting is etTeoted indoors 

 only, during the winter season. It con- 

 sists of splitting, inserting a scion, bind- 

 ing and making air tight with wax; 

 requiring a close moist atmosphere. 



The benefits derived from the use of 

 the Wardian case are these: In an or- 

 dinary greenhouse the ventilating varies 

 the temperature very materially, render- 

 ing it impossible to maintain the uniform 

 moist atmosphere made possible by the 

 use of the case, which is so necessary 

 to the entirely successful grafting of 

 roses. In order to become established 

 and united the scion requires warmth 

 and dampness, the lack of which, when 

 subject to change of temperature, allows 

 the scion to shrink and refuse to unite. 



It might be possible to graft a rose 

 outside a case after having grown it for 

 a year and forcing it in the same place, 

 as it would thus be so well established 

 that the union could take place at 

 once, without being sensitive to change 

 of temperature and atnrosphere. This, 

 however, is merely a case of possibility 

 and not practicality. Since the use of 

 the case saves time and plants, and these 

 factors mean money to all florists and 

 nurserymen, it would seem the most 

 practical measure to adopt. 



I have been very successful in this 



work and perhaps some one may be in- 

 terested in my methods. Take a glass 

 case 2 feet high and 3 wide by 4 long 

 with a side door (for working), place 

 on a cutting bench in which there is a 

 door through which you can place pans 

 ■ )f water on the pipes, the evaporation 

 of which causes a moist heat. In top of 

 bench make an opening 5x0 inches wide 

 by 5 inches high, with cover, through 

 which temperature of case is regulated. 

 Fill the bench with clean sand and pot 

 ill 3 or 4 inch pots according to size of 

 loots and place under a cool bench for 

 14 days, with sufficient moisture. At 

 the expiration of this time sink pots 

 in sand in case and syringe once each 

 day, beginning at a temperature of 50 

 degrees and increasing to 75 degrees, 

 syringing twice daily. 



The scions should be cut in the fall 

 from outdoor grown roses and placed 

 in a cool cellar in moist sand. After 

 the potted stock has a good start and 

 throws out shoots, begin grafting. I pre- 

 fer grafting behind the bark rather than 

 splitting. Use plenty of wax to render 

 it air-tight, and rallia for binding. In 

 about three weeks remove plants which 

 have made a good giow.th from ease, 

 place on a bench shaded from sun in 

 about same temperature of case for first 

 week, gradually lower and finally place 

 in an ordinary carnation house with 

 plenty of fresh air. 



I prefer the Rosa canina or English 

 Sweet Briar for outdoor grown roses, 

 but Manetti stock is fine for forcing 

 roses. I raise my own seedlings and use 

 the second and sometimes the first year. 

 This article represents grafting on a 

 small scale only but where wholesale 

 quantities are desired a greenhouse can 

 be managed on exactly the same plan. 

 C. M. Hemala. 



r.nckl.-v. 111. 



ROSE TROUBLES. 



I have one house of roses that is a 

 perfect failure. I have not averaged one 

 rose a day from the whole house this 

 winter. The plants were nice and thrif- 

 ty when benched last June and they 

 have had the best of attention as to heat, 

 water and ventilation. I have been 

 growing roses here for 15 years and 

 have never had any trouble of the kind 

 before. The soil, which is a dark clay 

 loam, was not as heavy as it ought to 

 be and there was a little very fine sand 

 in it, but it was such good soil for 

 crops I thought it would do all right 

 if well firmed. 



The plants seem free from disease and 

 look green but they don't grow very 

 much and once in a while there will 

 be a plant the leaves of which will come 

 out thin and soon wilt and then the 

 whole plant dies. ' I used no bone meal 

 and nothing but old cow dressing to 

 enrich the soil. I keep the temperature 

 from 55 to 60 degrees at night. I can't 

 see over ten buds, large and small, to 

 the hundred plants now. Can you tell 

 me what the trouble is? H. W. 



It is possible the soil may be too light 

 and not ricb enough but this would not 

 account for the dying off of the plants 

 when they are otherwise well treated. 

 It is evident that the plants are in- 

 fested with eel-worms and if H. W. will 

 take up some of the plants he will prob- 

 ably find the roots covered with the 

 galls or knots caused by the presence 

 of this microscopic pest. 



There is no remedy that will kill the 



