748 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



May 2, 1901. 



Figure 3 is a very simple steel wire 

 frame to insert in a pot of Crimson 

 Rambler roses and fasten to a mirror. 

 Hide the wires with the foliage and bend 

 them to any shape desired. Cut off all 



the Rambler blooms and you can then 

 attach several hundred roses among the 

 foliage in green glasses of water. Avoid 

 stiff or formal lines. Make it appear as 

 if the roses were growing in profusion 

 on that tree. Wire a few on the ends 

 and have all the flowers face outward. 

 This kind of wire frame can be used 

 for arches, canopies or any kind of de- 

 sign. It permits the artist to copy the 

 natural and that gives more pleasure 

 than formal lines. 



Figure 4 is a steel wire frame that will 

 enable you to transform a corner or al- 

 cove in a room into a "bower of roses." 

 Fasten at the floor and again at the top. 

 One of these was recently covered with 

 American Beauty roses. Just fasten 

 them on as if they were growing, using 

 short ones at the bottom ana long ones 

 at the top. 



Figure 5 is a six to nine foot skeleton 

 for a rose tree. The iron pipe is in two 

 pieces and extensible, the upper length 

 being held in position by the set screw 

 when in use. The lop is of steel wires 

 and it can be made finely effective for 

 avenue work. Smaller sizes are used for 

 table work. The stem and wires are 

 first covered with rose foliage, from 



50 to 2.^0 roses of one color being used 

 On the wires. Any small leafless tree 

 in a plant pot can be used instead of 

 above for a frame. 



Figure G shows a very handy stand 

 to hold a flowering plant, fern, vase or 

 arrangement of flowers to place in groups 

 of plants or at ends of pews down the 



church. The iron pipe standard is six 

 feet high with wire pot frame on top. 



Figure 7 shows a fancy nickel plated 

 counter stand to hold "shower", or other 

 bouquets. It can be made taller or 

 shorter bv means of the socket and set 



CARNATION NOTES. 



Diseased Carnations. 



The plants sent for examination by 

 L. U. showed two kinds of disease and 

 both in a very advanced stage. The 

 White Cloud plant was badly affected 

 with bacteria and if the whole bench is 

 as bad as the plant sent there is not 

 much use of bothering with them any 

 longer. Better burn the plants. 



There are many ways in which this 

 disease can be brought on, such as over- 

 watering, over feeding and sometimes im- 

 poverished soil, or in fact anything that 

 tends to weaken their constitution. Plants 

 that are kept growing steadily are not 

 likely to take the disease. When a plant 

 shows this disease you may be sure there 

 is something wrong in the treatment and 

 if it is allowed to get a good hold on a 

 plant it is hard to get rid of and seldom 

 do the plants fully recover from it; they 

 do not have the vitality necessary to 



make a good, strong 



allow them 

 growth. 



Some varieties are more jirone to take 

 this disease than others and special care 

 must be given to the watering and feeding 

 of those varieties from the time the cut- 

 tings are put into the sand until the 

 plants are through blooming eighteen 

 months after. There is perhaps nothing 

 better than an occasional dose of lime or 

 soot diiriii':' tlu- h'omiiinjr season. The 

 lime k.r|i III. Mil -,\,,i ;iinl soot is one 

 of the li.'^i l-h.rj. I- ■]■ «.• liavc. 



Our .A].ri irii, r ,, 111, i|i,^ discasc hss 

 invari:il'l> li'rn iiiii i lii. \ < mng stock ap- 

 parenlh- oiii:ji.n\. ii .nhl links hcalthv 

 and rlciiii nniil ilir il;nk il:iys of the fol- 

 lowing Willi. 1 whtii it irjpiioars unless 

 extreme care is exercised by the grower. 

 This is where selection of cuttings plays 

 an important part. We never propa- 

 gate from plants that show signs of this 

 disease and if any of the young plants 

 take it we dump them at once. To try 

 to doctor up young plants of standard 

 varieties is wasting time and money, be- 

 cause even if you do succeed in restoring 

 them to health in a month or two you 

 will be just that much behind those that 

 were always healthy; and so at best you 

 can only expect fair results. 



The plant of Crane had on it a disease 

 best known as "purple-joint," but as I 

 have had no experience with this disease 

 I can give no light on the subject of 

 eradicatingit. T havehcard other growers 

 say that the Bordeaux mixture and also 



the copper solution had proven effective 

 in keeping it in cheek. Perhaps Mr. U. 

 would do well to try one of these unless 

 he is willing to do "the best thing of all, 

 which is to burn the affected stock and 

 buy new stock from some one whose 

 slock he knows to be clean and healthy. 



Fig. C. 



There is no time to doctor young stock 

 now, but get a new start at once and get 

 the stock planted as soon as you can. 

 If Mr. U. has any faith in the indoor 

 culture this would give him an excellent 

 opportunity to get the benches planted 

 early. Jubilee, America and Mrs. Bradt 

 certainly do better with us grown this 

 way and no doubt there are others that 

 would appreciate it as well. 



Planting Out 



You should be in the midst of your 

 planting now unless the weather has per- 

 mitted you to finish before this date. In 

 our section from April 20 to May 10 

 seems to be the very best time for plant- 

 ing carnations; the weather is usually 

 mild between those dates and the young 

 plants take hold quickly and get down 

 to growing before the hot and dry days 

 and nights of summer come along. This 

 year we had a spell of fine mild weather 

 from the 9th until the 18th of April, and 

 many growers had a few thousand young 

 carnations in the field when on the 18th 

 a hea\'y snow storm came along and the 

 thermometer stood about 30 degrees sev- 

 eral nights in succession and not many 

 degrees higher during the day. While 

 this did no serious damage yet I am sure 

 it did no good either and the young plants 

 that are being planted now right after 

 the cold spell will be much better off. 

 But it is rather late an^ no time should 

 be lost in getting them out. 



Shade. 



We have just put a very light shade 

 on our cut bloom houses, as the sun has 

 suddenly developed a good deal of 

 strength and the red varieties will not 

 bear it many days without losing their 

 brilliancy aird later on their size and 

 freshness. Many of the pinks also lose 

 that brightness which we all admire so 

 much. I do not like to shade until it is 

 really necessary, and then a very light 

 shade is sufficient until the weather is 

 quite hot. Plenty of air and water will 



