DECEMBER S, 1S9S. 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



27 



also. Sulphur mixed with slacked lime 

 to a thin paste so that it may lip ap- 

 plied with a blush on a heating pipe 

 should never be omitted. It emits a 

 light fume, making it uncongenial for 

 all fungous growths. If made too 

 strong it will injure the flowers and if 

 very strong will likewise injure the 

 plants. We cannot follow this para- 

 sitic fungus into the tissues of stem 

 and leaves with any destroying ele- 

 ment, without destroying the host at 

 the same time, so we do the next best 

 thing, which is to remove the affected 

 leaves and branches and be on guard 

 by dusting sulphur into the axil of the 

 leaves. 



I have abandoned all syringing with 

 mineral solution in water, as sulphate 

 of copper, etc., for the application of 

 the syringe wU foster this disease 

 more than the applied minerals will 

 destroy; and if applied sufficiently 

 strong to take effect will also injure 

 the plants. 



Rust is not now feared as in former 

 years, for it is not so dangerous as 

 other diseases we have to fight, but it 

 is at all times a relief when none of it 

 is in evidence. When held in check, 

 and this is about all we can do, it will 

 occasion some extra work, but will not 

 keep the plants from growing and 

 blooming. FRED DORNER. 



REPLY TO INQUIRY. 



My carnations seem to be troubled 

 with a dry rot, the plants rotting at the 

 surface of the soil. They were taken 

 in the house Oct. 15 and about two 

 weeks after began to rot. They are 

 Flora Hill and Silver Spray. Kindly 

 let me know the cause and a remedy 

 for it. What temperature is best for 

 them, also the proper time for water- 

 ing? H. A. S. 



This is what we call stemrot, the 

 most dangerous disease that attacks 

 the carnation. Some varieties appear 

 more subject to this disease than oth- 

 ers, and there is considerable com- 

 plaint about Flora Hill and Silver 

 Spray this season, which may, how- 

 ever, be due to local causes or wrong 

 treatment. The most common error 

 that very often leads to this disease is 

 too deep planting. The plants should 

 never be planted any deeper than they 

 stood in the field, preferably not so 

 deep. The stem of the plants should 

 be out of the ground sufiiciently to 

 hold the branches away from the soil. 

 I believe this disease is not alone 

 found on the carralion, but on other 

 plants, too, and spores of this fungus 

 may have been embedded in the soil, 

 carried over or imprisoned, dormant in 

 the plants from the cutting bench. 



As to a remedy, there is none. We 

 can only employ preventive measures. 

 A plant attacked is doomed and the 

 sooner it is removed, with the ground 

 around the stem, the less chance for 

 a spread to the next plant. To check 

 and prevent the spreading of this dis- 

 ease dust flour of sulphur over the 



plants and shake them so it will lodge 

 on the stem and branches and on the 

 soil around the stem. 



The temperature should be from 52 

 to 55 degrees at night and from 60 to 

 65 degrees on cloudy days during the 



day. With bright sunshine it will nat- 

 urally run higher. 



Water should be given when the 

 ground is in a condition dry enough 

 to pulverize, and then be sure that it 

 reaches the bottom of the bench; and 

 always remember to apply the water 

 underneath and keep the plants above 

 ground dry. Watering may be neces- 

 sary once or twice a week and in 

 bright weather as often as every other 

 day. FRED DORNER. 



ROSE NOTES. 



Red spider! One of the smallest of 

 pesis and yet one of the mightiest of 

 enemies that the rose grower has to 

 contend with. So small is it that its 

 presence is often not aetected until 

 it has a firm lodging place on the un- 

 der side of the leaf, which very soon 

 indicates its presence by turning a 

 greenish yellow color, the first sign 

 of lost vitality. So destructive are the 

 ravages of this pest that in a very few 

 days considerable damage may be 

 done if it is not promptly checked 

 upon its first appearance. Right here 

 is where the careful grower will show 

 himself to advantage in manipulating 

 the hose in such a manner as to quick- 

 ly dislodge the deadly foe, making it 

 possible for the plant to recover its 

 lost vitality in a very short time, 

 which in the hands of less experienced 

 would seem next to impossible. 



Red spider thrives best in a warm, 

 dry atmosphere, and nearly always 

 makes its first appearance in the back 

 row, next to the wall, where the heat 

 comes up from below during times of 

 heavy firing. Make it a special point 

 to reach these plants thoroughly from 

 the under side every time you syringe. 

 In wide benches it is the center row 

 that sometimes marks the beginning 

 of its work. Keep a lookout for it 

 there and also in and around any 

 corners; insist on these places being 

 thoroughly syringed every bright day. 

 The application of sulphur to the 

 steam pipes, the same as recommend- 

 ed for mildew, will do much in keep- 

 ing down this pest. Little's Antipest, 

 a commercial article sold by seeds- 

 men, has been used with good effect in 

 extreme cases; use as recommended 

 on label. Carbolic acid, a tablespoon- 

 ful to a two-gallon can of water, is 



sure death to red spider, without 

 harming the plants; two or three ap- 

 plications once a week will soon de- 

 stroy all traces of the pest. 



So much for remedies. Let me, how- 

 ever, suggest that except in extreme 

 cases you rely altogether on the hose 

 and a good stream of clear water, in- 

 sisting that the man who handles it 

 does his work thoroughly. How few 

 there are who understand the art of 

 watering as it should be done. I call 

 it an art, as I firmly believe that he 

 who has mastered it has in him the 

 instinct of the artist. Shall not he 

 who aids in developing and producing 

 the finest specimens of nature be 

 equal to him who simply copies the 

 beautiful on a piece of canvas? Truly 

 ours is a profession, in which the very 

 highest genius can find much that is 

 worthy of its best efforts. As it is 

 said genius is a capacity and willing- 

 ness for doing hard work, so we find 

 the possessor of this rare gift always 

 on the alert in securing every advan- 

 tage in aiding his plants in their 

 growth and development, and if in the 

 performance of his duties in syringing 

 he finds it necessary to bend his back 

 to properly reach the desired spot, it 

 is only a reminder that rose growing 

 has its ups and downs and drawbacks 

 as well as everything else in this 

 world worth striving for. S. A. B. 



TOP DRESSING FOR ROSES. 



What is the best top dressing for 

 roses that have been in the bench one 

 year? 



What causes the small black spots 

 on rose leaves? Is the mulching too 

 strong? w. H. B. 



Perhaps the best ail around top 

 dressing for roses is well rotted cow 

 manure, rubbed through a % - inch 

 screen and spread evenly on the bench 

 to the depth of Va inch. This mulch 

 should be stirred about once every 

 week, to keep in good condition. If 



