240 THE FLORIST. 



year's flowering. If the weather continues dry, occasional watering 

 will be necessary. Clean and frequently stir the surface-soil. 



Polyanthuses. See that the stems are not exposed ; if so, earth 

 them up to the foliage. Clear away weeds and all harbours for slugs. 



Ranunculuses. Turn the surface of the beds in dry weather. 

 Make one or two sowings of seed in the early part of the month, 

 and supply moisture moderately and equally. Seeds that are laid 

 bare by waterings should be covered with fine mould. 



Roses in Pots. Shift if required. If they are in large pots, 

 turn them out, and cut the roots back, replacing them in the same- 

 sized pots. If they can be plunged in trenches, with sawdust, they 

 will soon root out with vigour. Winter the tender varieties in a 

 frame ; or if no such convenience is at hand, the plants should be 

 closely stuck round with pieces of yew, or interlaced with fern on 

 the appearance of frosty weather; but these are mere uncertain 

 makeshifts. Shift all small plants requiring it into larger sizes ; also 

 top-dress all large plants, that do not need repotting, with some 

 well-rotted dung and loam. 



Tulips. Examine the bulbs, and if not previously done, let 

 them now be arranged for planting, making the alterations and im- 

 provements noted down in the Tulip-book during the blooming- 

 time ; this should be done immediately the bulbs are taken up, while 

 the changes intended to be made are fresh in the mind. New 

 varieties should be procured at once, and then re-arrange them. 

 The bed should now be got ready for planting. If the soil has been 

 in use only one year, and the bulbs did well in it, there is no advan- 

 tage to be derived from changing it, for they will do well in the same 

 soil (if it be good) for two or three successive years; all that is re- 

 quired is, to remove about three inches from the surface, laying it in 

 a ridge by the sides of the bed ; then fork over the mould left in the 

 bed, laying that also in a high ridge for a w^eek or ten days. If the 

 soil require changing, it need not be removed ; take about ten inches 

 off the top, then put about six inches of two-year old potted turf and 

 loam and road-grit, well mixed together (three-fourths loam and one- 

 fourth grit), on the soil left in the bed ; fork it well over two or 

 three times, turning some of that left with the mould just added, so 

 as to mix it well, and lay it up in a high ridge; two or three days 

 before planting, rake it down, laying it two inches higher in the 

 middle than the sides. In planting, place a small quantity of river- 

 sand on the spot the bulb is to occupy, and put as much sand on 

 the bulb itself as will just cover it ; then carefully put the mould on 

 the bed, covering the bulbs four inches and a half deep in the centre, 

 and three inches on the outsides ; protect the bed at once, by plac- 

 ing small-sized iron hoops over it, rising about six inches from the 

 surface, and run some small string diagonally from each hoop. 

 About the second or third week in October is the best time for plant- 

 ing in general. The best plan is to begin planting whenever the 

 bulbs push forth their green spear, and the fibres swell at the bottom 

 of the root ; for the longer they are kept out of the ground when 

 this is the case, the greater injury they will sustain. 



