444 



The Weekly Florists' Review^ 



SEPTEMBER 13, 1900. 



up in a hurry they are likely to lay 

 around the shed, much to their injury, 

 so lift what you have to treat this way 

 and be prepared. 



Poinsettias. 



I want to conclude by reminding 

 you once more that Poinsettias should 

 never have their roots disturbed in 

 the slightest, not even by shifting, af- 

 ter the end of this month. If you 

 want the cut flowers then bed them 

 out. They will grow much stronger 

 and keep their foliage in a lower tem- 

 perature. But we find a much more 

 profitable use for them as pot plants, 

 and, above all, in 9, 10 and 12-ineh 

 pans. 



Plants in 2%-inch pots put now into 

 pans and kept in a warm, light house 



tinning then to bloom until cold 

 weather. It is a rapid grower, mak- 

 ing an erect trunk from which its 

 abundant branches and fine cut foli- 

 age, soft and feathery with its pink 

 flowers, make it a tree remarkable as 

 it now is rare. 



I have seen a tree of this kind with 

 a diameter of trunk of 12 or 15 inches 

 and a young tree yet. It is supposed 

 to come from the Amur River coun- 

 try, which is the boundary between 

 Siberia and China, and it is entirely 

 hardy in this country and thrives in 

 any soil. This is distinct from the 

 Amurensis imported by Prof. Budd. 



One great advantage this tree has 

 and that is that it will grow and 

 thrive in almost any soil or situat'on, 

 from the dry southwest to the salt 



A perpetual flowering Tamar x. 



will make splendid pans. Poinsettias, 

 like all other plants, should be grown 

 in as small a pot as it is possible to 

 develop them in, but when starved for 

 root room they lose their foliage. So 

 if they want shifting do it now or 

 leave it alone. And all those in a 5 

 or 6-inch pot should have a stake as 

 soon as shifted. 



WILLIAM SCOTT. 



TAMARIX, "UN-NAMED." 



This class of shrubs or trees (as 

 grown) have fine and delicate foliage, 

 soft and graceful as a fern, and of 

 various shades of green, and bearing 

 pink flowers, but always beautiful 

 whether in leaf or not. 



The photo is of a variety we for the 

 present call the "Un-named." It is 

 unlike most others in that it makes a 

 large quick-growing tree, with beauti- 

 ful foliage, abundance of flowers In 

 spring and again in midsummer, con- 



air of the coast; this trait making it 

 very desirable for city yard and park 

 planting, as also at the seashore. It 

 is to be regretted that -our florists 

 have not discovered and made use of 

 this, as one plant will furnish a large 

 amount of fine green for cutting all 

 summer and this will keep the tree 

 dwarf enough for any yard. The 

 spray of bloom was cut after a four 

 weeks' drought. 



A. H. GRIBSA. 

 Lawrence, Kan., September 3. 



WEDDING DECORATION. 



We learn that the wedding decora- 

 tion of which an illustration appeared 

 on page 388 of the Review for August 

 30, and used by Mr. Kift in illustrat- 

 ing his lecture at the New York con- 

 vention, was arranged by Mrs. F. A. 

 Grantham, Vaiden, Miss., and that this 

 picture took first prize in the Ladies' 

 Home Journal's contest in 1S98 tor 

 "best picture of wedding decoration." 



LILIES. 



If you have chrysanthemums plant- 

 ed out on benches you can utilize the 

 space to best advantage after the 

 chrysanthemum season is past by 

 planting Liliums Harrisii and longi- 

 fiorum in the same soil rather than 

 raising the lilies in pots to be mar- 

 keted as cut flowers. 



Pot 5 to 9 Harrisii and 9 to 11 lon- 

 giflorum in good rich soil, to which 

 bone meal has been added, in 4-inch 

 pots and place along the walks on the 

 shady side of a house. Give one thor- 

 ough watering and no more unless re- 

 ally in need of it. By taking up the 

 pots and looking at the bottom of the 

 soil you can tell whether additional 

 water is necessary. If given too much ' 

 water the root action will be weakened 

 and the bulbs will not be able to force 

 the stem upwards. Let them stand in 

 the pots until the mums are gone. 

 They will be much more advanced 

 than if you had plunged them in a 

 frame outside. When they have stems 

 about ten inches high change to the 

 sunny side of the walk, or if there is 

 room put them on a bench. 



When the mums are taken up shake 

 the soil from their roots and let the 

 old soil dry in the bench a day or 

 so. Then put some rich new soil on 

 top of the old and with the spade mix 

 the old and the new well together, 

 making the lumps fine, and then leval 

 off nicely. Then plant out the lilies, 

 placing the longifiorum 12 inches and 

 the Harrisii 10 inches apart in the al- 

 ternate way. This saves the big ex- 

 pense of buying 5 and 6-inch pots and 

 saves a lot of work in tying up. 



After the bench is planted give it 

 a thorough watering but don't water 

 again for at least a week. By that 

 time the roots will have taken a good 

 hold of the soil. They will not re- 

 quire near as much water as lilies in 

 pots, the growth will be freer, the 

 stem much stronger and the flowers 

 larger. No tying up is required. Give 

 the plants plenty of air on sunny days. 



If you want flowers from the Har- 

 risii before Christmas (of course you 

 cannot have longiflorum so early as 

 that) have the temperature at least 

 65 degrees at night. Syringe twice a 

 day in bright weather, and in cold, 

 dark weather have the day tempera- 

 ture at least 62 degrees. Watch out 

 for greenfly. Fumigate strongly 

 every two weeks and when the buds 

 are showing color fumigate lightly 

 once a week to prevent any greenfly 

 from getting into the buds. 



After the end of December the cut 

 of flowers will become larger every 

 week. The greater part of the Har- 

 risii will be gone before Easter, but 

 the longiflorum will come much more 

 slowly. You will begin cutting longi- 

 fiorum in January and the heavy cut 

 will be for Easter. By keeping them 

 very cool at night after Easter, a lit- 

 tle shade on the glass and full ven^ 



