12 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



Standauds. — These are useful to break the monotony of a dis- 

 play, as their round heads on clear stems stand up above the dwarf 

 trained plants, and have a very beautiful appearance. In case the 

 reader is not familiar with the various forms in which the chrysan- 

 themum is grown, I may say that a standard bears a near resem- 

 blance to a standard rose when the head is round and well furnished, 

 and completely covered with flow^ers. The merest beginner may 

 grow very pretty standards by following the directions I give, but it 

 requires some practice to produce standards of iirst-class excellence ; 

 hence we do not often see at exhibitions good examples of this class. 

 Some growers keep their standards several years, and the stems 

 thereby become very stout and strong, and, if well managed, they 

 have fine heads. But all the standards I have exhibited have been 

 yearling plants — that is to say, raised from cuttings, and grown to 

 full dimensions in one season, after which they are destroyed. The 

 reason I prefer yearling j)lants is, thac the old ones are not to be 

 depended on ; the old wood may die in the winter. The large- 

 liowering kinds are not well adapted for standards, though a few, 

 such as Little Harry, for instance, might be managed successfully. 

 As ornaments for the dinner-table are in demand, I would suggest 

 to practical gardeners that standard pompones are admirably adapted 

 for the purpose, as they do not interrupt the view across the dinner- 

 table — their heads being above the line of vision when the guests are 

 seated, and they have a delightful appearance under artificial light. 

 The way I treat them is similar to the others. I select good strong 

 cuttings as early in the spring as possible, and, when well esta- 

 blished in small pots, they are shifted into 48's, kept in the green- 

 house, and staked the height I want the stem to grow, which is 

 generally from two feet six inches to three feet. After they have 

 attained that growth, they are then stopped in the same manner as 

 I have before explained — the secret being to get as many breaks as 

 possible from the first stopping, to form the framework of the head ; 

 all side-shoots on the stem must be removed, but not the foliage. I 

 invariably shift them for the last time about the middle of June ; 

 they are then plunged like the others, secured at the neck of the 

 plant to prevent the wind breaking them, and liberally supplied 

 with manure-water. The varieties best adapted for "this purpose 

 are the early and free-flowering sorts, so that they can be stopped 

 a fortnight later than the others. As a long season of growth is 

 desirable, the amateur may be led to take autumn cuttings for the 

 formation of standards. I feel bound to say that experience has 

 taught me that sprinrj cuttings are far preferable, as they can be kept 

 growing from the first ; and they have such health and vigour that, 

 if properly cared for, they make fine free heads, which plants from 

 autumn cuttings will not always do. 



The young buds are apt to suffer much from the attacks of green- 

 fly. Whenever this pest makes its appearance, the tips of the 

 shoots should be dipped in tobacco-water, or, what will perhaps 

 have a more permanent effect, be dusted over w^ith dry snuff. The 

 earvrig is also a great enemy to the chrysanthemum, and should be 

 destroyed by every available means ; trapping with short lengths of 



