158 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



in May, you must soon begin to prepare the materials for the bottom-heat. Shake 

 out the long litter from the stables, and if it is dry give it a liberal supply of water, 

 and turn it over several times at intervals of four days, watering it each time it 

 necessary to prevent its heating dry and mouldy ; at the same time it must not be 

 made too wet. The object of frequent turnings is to dissipate the noxious gases, 

 and bring the manure into a steady heat. "When you empty your pit, the hot dung 

 should be brought in, and be carefully shaken out as the pit is filled witli it ; and it 

 will need pressing pretty firm ; and then in a day or two the soil can be brought in, 

 just sufficient to form a ridge up the centre of the pit, and should consist of loam, 

 leaf-mould, and rotten dung, in the proportion of two barrow-loads of the first to 

 one each of the two latter. But if it should happen that you are deficient of leaf- 

 mould, use a barrowfal of the dung in its place ; and let the materials be well 

 incorporated together, and use the mixture in a moderately rough state. As soon 

 as the soil is warmed through the plants can be turned out, one under the centre of 

 each light. Plant them rather deep, and they will root up the stem and soon get 

 established. Directly the planting is completed, give the bed a good watering with 

 tepid water, to settle the soil. Keep the frame close for a few days until the plants 

 get established, giving just sufficient air to allow the steam from the heating mate- 

 rials to escape, and shade from the sun. Directly the roots begin to take hold of 

 the soil, more air must be admitted, and less shading will be necessary ; but it will 

 be as well to shade slightly through the hottest part of the day, after the plants get 

 thoroughly established. When the roots begin to show through the soil, the 

 remaining part of the compost ought to be brought in, and the bed filled up to its 

 proper level. As the plants progress in growth, stop and train out the vines as may 

 be necessary, for nothing will be gained by over-crowding. In the first instance, 

 pinch out the points of the shoots above the second or third rough leaf, and the two 

 branches which will emanate from the axils of these leaves must be again pinched 

 as soon as they reach the sides of the pit, when they will emit fruit-bearing side- 

 shoots ; and these must be stopped a leaf above the fruit, to throw the whole vigour 

 of the shoot into it. The shoots with no fruit on ought to be pinched one leaf from 

 the main stem. Give the plants plenty of water (but do not overdo it) at the roots ; 

 for the unfruitfulness of cucumbers can often be traced to being too dry. Sprinkle 

 overhead once or twice a day, and shut the pit up early. The syringing ought to 

 be done early enough in the morning for the moisture to drj' up before the sun acts 

 powerfully upon the plants, or it will burn them. All water used should have the 

 chill taken off by being stood in the sun, or by having the addition of a little warm 

 water. We should advise you to procure some young plants ready to plant, if you 

 have no means to raise them, before you get the heat in the pit, otherwise you will 

 lose a month's valuable time. Carter's Champio7i^ Improved Sion Souse, and 

 Telegraph are free-bearing kinds suitable for frame culture. 



Specimex Convolvulus. — Lady Gardener \s desirous of knowing what flowering 

 plants would grow sufficiently quick to make nice large specimens to stand about on 

 her lawn this season. This correspondent has not given us much time, for it is 

 desired to place them quickly in their positions. We have no difficulty in the 

 matter, for the annual Ipomeas make grand plants for the purpose, if treated libe- 

 rally throughout the season. To make sure of your succeeding, we will detail at 

 full the way of managing them. You must take some large pots — No. 4's are the 

 most suitable — but they should not be smaller than 6's, for the smaller pots are not 

 large enough to hold sufficient soil to carry them through the summer. The pots 

 must be thoroughly clean ; make a good drainage by putting a few large pieces of 

 broken pots or pieces of brick in the bottom, and a layer of pieces of turf, or other, 

 rough stuff over, to keep the soil from getting down amongst them. When this is 

 finished, fill in firmly with good fibry loam two parts ; rotten manure, one part ; and 

 leaf-mould, one part. The soil must not be made too fine, but used rough and 

 lumpy. Though the Ipomeas will grow luxuriantly in any ordinary soil when 

 planted out in the borders, they require slightly different treatment, and a little 

 better soil, when the roots are cramped in pots. Directly the pots are filled with soil, 

 the seed slaould be planted regularly over the surface, and buried half an inch deep. 

 From eight to twelve plants will be quite sufficient for one pot, but it will be as well 

 to plant a few more to allow for casualties ; and when the plants come up they can 

 be easily drawn out j there will be no advantage in having the plants too much 

 crowded. There is not a moment to be lost, and the pots should be placed in a little 



