THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 269 



well washed, if they have been used for growing plants previously, 

 and a few pieces of crock placed in the bottom for drainage. The 

 soil should be tilled in rather firmly, first placing a few rough pieces 

 over the crocks, to prevent the drainage getting choked up, and its 

 action impeded. Each bulb should be about two-thirds beneath the 

 surface, and should be placed in its position as the pots are being 

 filled with soil. A very common way, and I confess to have done it 

 myself, is to fill the pot with soil, and then press the bulb down into 

 its place. When this is done, the soil immediately under the base 

 of the bulb is made hard, and when the roots begin to push, they 

 are unable to penetrate the soil so readily as is desirable. The con- 

 sequence of this is the bulb gets lifted up out of its place, and is 

 unsteady when it begins to grow. It is impossible to make them 

 firm again, after growth has commenced. After the potting is com- 

 pleted, stand the pots out of doors, on a hard bottom, through which 

 the worms will be unable to penetrate. Place a small pot over each 

 bulb, to keep the ashes from the crown ; but, before doing this, give 

 them a liberal soaking of water. Fill the spaces between the pots 

 with coal ashes, and then cover with six or eight inches of the same 

 material. For my own part, I don't like rotten tan, or anything 

 else that will encourage organic life. The object for covering them 

 is to promote root action before the growth of the top, and it should 

 be remembered that all growth which takes place before there 

 are roots to support it, is at the expense of the bulb. 



No further attention will be necessary to these until January, 

 when they must be uncovered, and, after cleansing the pots, they 

 should be placed in a cold pit. It will be necessary to cover the 

 lights for a short time, until the young growth is able to stand the 

 full light. Protection from frost must also be provided, when 

 necessary. 



Por blooming in March, the bulbs must be shifted into a house, 

 which is kept at a temperature of about 60^ early in February, and 

 have plenty of light, and as much air as the weather will admit. 

 This will be very little at this season. And when the plants are in 

 full growth, give plenty of water at all times, and weak manure- 

 water twice a week. There are various ways of making manure- 

 water ; but the simplest, and equally as effective as any with which 

 I have had to do, is guano, mixed with rain-water at the rate of 

 half an ounce to the gallon, or one ounce to every three gallons. 

 Force gently, or the result will be long, lanky foliage, which will fall 

 about in all directions as the plants are shifted from place to place. 

 The object of the cultivator ought to be to grow them sufficiently 

 stocky for the foliage to remain in its proper position without 

 support. Those intended for blooming earlier, mu.^t be taken out of 

 the plunge-bed in December, and, after a few days' stay in the cold 

 frame, removed to the forcing-house or pit. For early work, it is an 

 advantage to plunge the pots in a mild bottom-heat, if it can be 

 managed, so as to give the plants plenty of light at the same time. 

 Those intended for flowering later in the season than March, may be 

 grown in the cold pit, and removed to the greenhouse wiien the 

 flower- spikes begin to push up, no artificial heat whatever being 



