THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 297 



will probably fail to bring a good rose at its summit ; therefore for 

 early work look more to the production of the greatest possible 

 amount of bloom than to the formation of a well-balanced plant, for 

 with plants that have not been specially trained for the purpose, 

 the two desirable points, viz., plenty of flower combined with 

 symmetry of form, cannot always be secured. Plants taken in hand 

 later in the season, with a view to forcing next year, should have 

 greater attention paid to the latter point. 



Assuming that the plants are in a fit state for forcing, we must 

 consider the means necessary for carrying it into effect. This may 

 be done in any pit or house that is Uglify and that can be kept at a 

 moderately warm temperature — say CO^ to 65" by day, and 50' to 

 55° by night, in dull sunless weather such as we usually experience in 

 November and December, with a rise of 5^ to 10" when the sun 

 shines. This rise of temperature during sunshine must be accompanied 

 with extra air, but very much depends upon whether the plants are 

 placed close to the glass, in a very light structure, as well as upon 

 the condition of the plants as to ripeness and plumpness of wood. 

 If the plants are in fine condition, with hard wood and promising 

 well, they may enjoy a rise of 5^ or even 10' with sunshine, with- 

 out harm ; but the safest plan is to adopt the minimum temperatures 

 given above, and if the plants break strongly, and put on a dark 

 green and vigorous foliage, it will be a sign that a cautious increase 

 of temperature may be indulged in ; but if, on the contrary, the foliage 

 is thin and pale, and the shoots weak, the contrary course must be 

 pursued, and more air admitted. It may be no harm indeed to 

 observe here that sJoio forcing is safer and easier for beginners than 

 fast forcing ; the practitioner must therefore make his own choice. 



It is somewhat difficult to calculate the precise time it will take 

 to bring the plants into flower, so much depending upon the amount 

 of sunlight we may or may not get, and the condition the plants 

 are in when taken in to force. It will be better, therefore, to intro- 

 duce a few plants at intervals of a week or fortnight, than to do so 

 with them all at once, beginning to do so early in November. If 

 a moderate degree of bottom-heat can be secured to the roots, it 

 will be well ; this may be secured in various ways, such as plunging 

 in tan, leaves, or other fermenting material, or over a tank, or 

 even upon a rack placed above the pipes or flue by which the house 

 is heated ; if by the latter mode, especial care must be taken to 

 preserve a moist atmosphere about them by frequent syringings 

 of the heated surface, and by painting some part of the same 

 with sulphur, to keep oft' red spider. AVatering must also be 

 looked to, to see that when given it is in sufficient quantity to 

 pass out at the bottom of the pot; and it should be in a tepid state, 

 and moderately dashed with some liquid manure, such as the drainage 

 from a farmyard or cowhouse; but if it has to be made for the 

 purpose, steep deer, sheep, or horse droppings with a little soot (tied 

 up in a bag) in water, in preference to stirring guano or other artificial 

 manure in the watering can ; these are only safe in experienced hands. 



Green- fly must be looked for, and the usual remedy, tobacco smoke 

 applied. 



