THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 361 



wet, or too dry. Excessive moisture will rot the roots, and drought 

 will prevent their bearing. The bottom-heat should average 70', and 

 not vary much either way ; and the top-heat from 55^ to G0\ "When 

 once the young shoots make their appearance above ground, a little 

 air should be left on at all times, unless the weather is unusually 

 severe. Whenever the weather will admit of its being done, the 

 lights should be tilted from six to eight inches at the back ; and in 

 exceptionally fine weather, drawn off entirely for an hour or so during 

 the warmest part of the day. By this kind of treatment it is 

 wonderful how much the flavour may be improved to what it would 

 be if very little attention was paid to air-giving, and the frames kept 

 closed. 'The asparagus is best for table when it is about six inches 

 above the surface, and should be cut with about two inches of the 

 blanched portion. This is hard and tough, and enables the cook to 

 send it to table without being broken. The fresh beds should be 

 made up at intervals of three weeks each, and, generally speaking, a 

 good shaking up, and a few barrowfuls of hot manure at each re- 

 newal, will be quite sufiicient, so far as warmth is concerned. The 

 old soil and sods M'ill also do for the whole season, fresh crowns 

 alone being required. With attention to the few rules I have laid 

 down, there need be no difiiculty in having good asparagus through- 

 out the whole winter, provided the materials necessary for carrying 

 it out are at hand. We will take next — 



Seakale. — Tliis valuable esculent is, if there be any difference, of 

 greater value and importance than the preceding. A larger supply can 

 be obtained in a limited space, both in growing the plants for forcing, 

 and also whilst that process is being carried on. It can also be sent to 

 table in good condition with a less degree of skill and attention than 

 asparagus, though the latter is by no means difficult to manage, if the 

 cultivator would but give it the little attentions I have pointed out. 

 There are several ways of forcing seakale, all simple ; the most important 

 of which are, taking the crowns up, and packing them close together 

 in a warm dark place, or covering the crowns with pots and warm 

 manure or leaves. Where leaves are plentiful, and an out-of-the-way 

 border can be set aside for the purpose, I certainly prefer forcing 

 it out in the open border. Finer seakale can be had with very little 

 trouble attached to forcing it, and it does away entirely with the 

 necessity of growing fresh crowns yearly, which is by no means an 

 easy task for those who have but little knowledge of gardening 

 affairs. When grown for forcing out of doors, the crowns should be 

 planted in rows three feet apart, and the same distance in the rows. 

 This will give each plant ample space for its individual development. 

 The length of the border depends upon the requirements of the 

 family, and the space that can be spared. The border should be 

 divided into equal divisions, each of which is to be started at separate 

 times. These, too, must be proportioned according to the size of the 

 family, so that a continuous supply can be kept up without a glut or 

 scarcity happening at any time. Where there is but a limited number 

 of crowns to be forced, it is not well to begin too soon, for seakale is 

 most needed through January, February, and a couple of weeks in 

 March. Previous to that time, we have plenty of cauliflowers and 



