252 



THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



hand, if only a turf pit, made of peat 

 sods, with loaterproof lights, and a good 

 dry drainage at bottom, which may be 

 effected by filling in with a few inches of 

 broken bricks, charcoal, or dry cinder- 

 ashes, or small coke, on which to place the 

 pots containing the cuttings. In such a 

 structure the great enemy to combat is 

 damp. Let, then, the lights be tilted 

 every fine day. Frequently look for damp 

 or decayed leaves. If any plant requires, 

 take it out to water, and keep it out until 

 the surplus water is drained from it. 

 Should any worms be seen to work in any 

 of the pots, lose no time in turning out 

 the plant to find them, as they obstruct 

 the drainage and sour the soil ; and should 

 the mildew appear in the form of white 

 spots upon the foliage or stems of the 

 plants, be also equally expeditious in dust- 

 ing a pinch of sulphur over the infected 

 plant. In frosty weather make sure by 

 dry coverings to exclude frost; but should 

 any doubt exist on that head when the 

 frost leaves us, be in no haste to expose 

 the plants to light ; it is much safer to 

 give air by degrees before stripping off the 

 covering, as plants will recover from the 

 effect of slight frosting whilst kept in the 

 dark, whilst one gleam of sunshine w^uld 

 be fatal. Having disposed of the flower- 

 ing and growing plants in the greenhouse, 

 and the young stock, either in a pit or 

 upon shelves, there remain two other 

 classes of plnnts to provide for, namely, 

 the greenhouse plants for a state of rest, 

 with which we shall associate large plants 

 used in flower-garden decoration, and 

 plants requiring a little warmth to bring 

 out their flowers before carried to the 

 greenhouse. Tlie former of these may be 

 kept under any temporary shelter until the 

 very verge of winter, such as an open 

 she'd, in front of which may be suspended 

 mats, tarpaulings, etc. ; but the cultivator 

 must, at the same time, be prepared with 

 the means of protection ready at any mo- 

 ment tliat serious frost sets in, and, as 

 every place oft'era some special and distinct 

 means, differing from another, we can only 

 offer general hints, leaving the details to 

 circumstances. A shed, or outhou.sc, with 

 close-fUtiiir/ doors and windows, especially 

 if built with liollow walls, and having reed 

 or some other non-conducting substance 

 for a roof, would protect many plants for a 

 considerable period, and this would be, in 

 a great measure, according to the degree 

 of light it admitted. In mild weather the 

 doors and windows might be thrown open, 

 and in frosty weather a small stove or 

 fireplace might be used with moderation, 

 though, of course, the plants would be best 



without it, if the entrance of frost can be 

 otherwise prevented ; or part of a stable, 

 or loft over a stable, where there is con- 

 siderable warmth below, might, by the 

 assistauce of short, dry hay, placed be- 

 tween the pots and plants, be made avail- 

 able for the purpose. The plants which it 

 is possible to keep by such means are old 

 fuchsias, hydrangeas, Brugmansias, myr- 

 tles, tea roses, agave, agapanthus, old 

 scarlet and other geraniums, in pots, vases, 

 or fancy boxes ; also the old plants taken 

 from the border.', and packed thickly in 

 pots or boxes to be potted off in spring. 

 These latter should be taken in before frost 

 strikes the bark of the stem, and all leaves 

 larger than a half-crown should be cut 

 off, with all straggling slioots. Fuchsias 

 should be left unpruned until the approach 

 of spring. Myrtles or neriums should be 

 kept from dessication by small allowances 

 of water occasionally, if required. De- 

 ciduous plants and geraniums will scarcely 

 require it. The other class of plants I 

 have alluded to are such as require a closer 

 atmosphere than that of the greenhouse, 

 with, if possible, a little bottom-heat, in 

 order to bring them into proper trim for 

 taking their place in the greenhouse or 

 drawing-room flower-stand, for the earlier 

 these can be had in flower the more will 

 they be appreciated. They consist of all 

 the sorts of Dutch bulbs, Dielytra specta- 

 bilis, Lily of the Vallej', musk, roses, 

 Deutzia gracilis, or any varieties of hardy 

 shrubs, that may have received proper 

 treatment during the past summer to fit 

 them for a slight forcing. These, of course, 

 can be brought to perfection at almost any 

 period of the winter, where a proper forcing 

 pit exists ; but, supposing that we are 

 writing for those with limited means only, 

 we will presume that a melon-pit only is 

 available, without hot-water or flues to 

 heat it; as soon, then, as sufficient leaves 

 can be obtained to half fill it, or, indeed, as 

 they are gathered, they may be put in, 

 and, being protected from Avet by the 

 lights, will sooner commence to heat; 

 these will afford bottom-heat, and assist 

 also the atmospheric heat ; the rest must 

 be secured by shutting up the solar rays, 

 when they can be caught, and by the ap- 

 plication of linings of leaves and dung 

 outside the pit. Air, however, must be 

 given in the forenoon of fine days, shutting 

 up enrly, so as to secure all the warmth 

 possible in the afternoom. Tiie rising of 

 the temperature from the sun's rays after 

 it has passed the meridian, may be safely 

 indulged in, but mischief may arise from the 

 same course before that time, if air is not 

 given. In frosty weather straw or refuse 



