7G 



THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



season and circumstances. The aspect for 

 summer growth has been determined by 

 some writers to be south, fully exposed to 

 the sun. Experience has taught others, 

 who have given attention to maintain a 

 healthy foliage, that the plants arc much 

 injured by an excess of hot sun; there- 

 fore, it is better to place them where they 

 will have the full benefit of the morning 

 sun until mid-day, and no longer ; after 

 which time the plants can be watered over- 

 head without danger, and they will escape 

 the risk of being scorched or fagged. The 

 pots may advantageously be plunged in 

 the ground during the heat of summer, 

 and remain there until we give notice of 

 their removal into a more open aspect. 

 The stopping depends much upon the style 

 which the grower intends to adopt. If, 

 however, the style that I introduced inlS57, 

 and which was approved by all who saw 

 it, as the most adapted for an exhibition 

 table, be followed, the stop should be at 

 every fifth or eighth joint, if the plants be 

 long jointed, as most of the strong growers 

 arc, such as DuruQet, Mustapha, and the 

 like, which ought to be grown and shown 

 as intermediate chrysanthemums — these 

 may properly be stopped at every fifth 

 joint ; andsuch as Canrobert,Eequiqui, and 

 others in that style of growth, the stop 

 may be at the eighth joint, and be con- 

 tinued until the first, second, or third 

 week of August, according to the time of 

 blooming. Dob should be stopped the 

 last week of July, if the growth will allow, 

 but not later than the first week of August. 

 Canrobert, Requiqui, St. Thais, Helene, 

 and others of their growth, should be stop- 

 ped in the second week of August ; and 

 such as Cedo Nulli, Bijou de l'Horticul- 

 trc, Brilliant, Doctor Bois Duval, would 

 be stopped in the third week of August. 

 . It is impossible to fix the exact time for 

 potting without seeing the state of growth. 

 I may however say that, whenever the 

 fibres have fairly reached all round the 

 sides of the pots, do not allow them to be- 

 come in any way matted, but continue to 

 pot on at once until attaining to the 

 blooming-pot, which should not be later 

 than June. Liquid manure, after June, 

 should be of a cooling nature, viz.: — One 



peck of fresh cow-dung to twelve gallons 

 of water ; letting it stand for a few days 

 before using. Great nicety is, however, 

 not required. I have applied it pretty 

 strong, and never found it to do an injury ; 

 but if a more exciting manure is used, the 

 grower should carefully test its strength, 

 or disappointment will sure to be the re- 

 sult, particularly if used during the hot 

 season of the year. The application of 

 liquid manure is not required until the 

 roots have reached the sides of the pot, 

 whether the plants be large or small. 

 Training, whatever mode may be adopted, 

 should be after each stop, and the most 

 handy peg for summer work, if trained 

 after these rules, will be of iron-wire. Pre- 

 vious to using it, dip the hook part into 

 paint to prevent its cankering the tender 

 shoots. Iron pegs are not only easily pro- 

 cured, but ai*e very durable ; I am now 

 using those made in 1856, which will last 

 this season, if not for another. Cuttings 

 may now be started for growing as bushy 

 plants, suitable for the conservatory — the 

 same directions for stopping and for cul- 

 ture throughout holds good, except that 

 the plants will need no pegging, or twist- 

 ing, merely tie out the shoots to admit cir- 

 culation of light and air. Cuttings may 

 also be started as late as June, for growing 

 in 48, or 32-size pots, and receive once or 

 twice stopping, according to character of 

 early or late blooming, as before mentioned. 

 Compost for the last potting should con- 

 sist of good holding loam, with a sixth part 

 of dried eow-duug, pounded charcoal, and 

 oyster-shells. If a lighter compost is used, 

 the plants are liable to suffer in hot wea- 

 ther, not being able to retain sufficient 

 moisture. Should green-fly or blight at- 

 tack them, syringe with tobacco-water, in 

 proportions of half an ounce of tobacco 

 to three gallons of water. For red 

 spicier or mildew, dust with black sulphur, 

 after syringing the plants in the evening; 

 wash it oil' as much as possible, before the 

 sun gets too hot the next morning, other- 

 wise it is liable to cripple the foliage. 

 J. Holland, 

 Gardener to It. IV. Peake, Esq., 

 Spring Grove, Isleworth. 



CULTURE OF MELONS ON DUX(KBEDS. 



Tiie melon was introduced to the Romans gardener, who was a French priest, named 



from Armenia, where it is a native, by Woolf, to travel on the continent for the 



Lucullus. It was first grown in this express purpose of acquiring a better 



country in 1520. Henry VIII. sent his kuowledge of his art. He is said to have 



