THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



151 



made beautiful plants, and, as to the opera- 

 tion, it is as easy, or easier, than the usual 

 method of working on a shoot. Make an 

 incision like the letter I on the stem; then 

 a cross-cut on top, to make the usual T, 

 but let the incision and the shield be a 

 little longer than usual with top-shoots ; 



this A Fill in the hole with gritty stuff, 

 or a ' * spadeful of leaf-mould, and it 

 will be sure to make roots for itself long 

 before November. Then separate it and 

 plant it as an independent briar, on which, 

 at least one season has been saved in its 

 final progress to the rosery. If the sucker 



in fact, use the largest shields you can get ! comes from the root stock, it is sure to 

 from very plump rods, to suit the robust have plenty of fibres when November 



nature of the wood you work on. Tie up 

 and tally, in fourteen days loosen ; in a 

 month from entering remove the binding, 

 and you will be surprised at the growth of 

 the new shoots. They will soou distance 

 those entered in the usual way on side- 

 shoots of hard briars. Thus briar and 

 rose begin the world together ; there is no 



comes, and therefore needs no prepara- 

 tion. Remove it then and plant it with 

 the rest. On this plan, instead of suckers 

 being a nnisance, they may all be turned 

 to account, and your roses multiplied into 

 dwarfs and standards, according to your 

 wants, and the materials at command. 

 But the briar, though the best stock 



conflict between youth and age, and the | for all general purposes, is not the only 

 junction is rapid and complete. Of course oue available. The Floral World has 

 the side-shoots must be nipped in, and in always stood up for the Manetti as the best 



November removed altogether, and the 

 stem cut back clean over to the topmost 

 of the two entered buds. That topmost 

 bud will probably not unite so well as the 

 one lower down. At the meeting at Brix- 

 ton, on the 24th, I showed them an exam- 

 ple of how the top bud of a " gun-barrel" 

 ■worked rose 

 will sometimes 

 live by a bit of 

 green bark on 

 the bud side 

 only, the briar A 

 perishing slant- f^. 



wdse behind it 

 The first sum- 

 mer after the 

 budding, it can 

 be cut clean 

 back to the 

 lowest bud, and 

 ■will heal over 

 at once, and 

 the growth of 

 the head willbe 

 all the better for 



it, for, as in the * 



former one, one bud is quite sufficient ; but, 

 to get that worked sucker up with good 

 roots, there's the rub. Just don't think 

 about that, if it is the right sort of plump 

 green briar for the purpose. By removing 

 a little of the earth from the collar, you 

 can pretty well judge whether it comes 

 direct from the stem of the parent briar 

 or from the root stock under ground. If 

 it comes. from the old stem, trace it to its 

 source, pass your finger under the bend, 

 close to its junction with the collar of the 

 parent briar, and having made a clear 

 way for a small knife, cut a small notch 

 in the under side, of the shape and size of 



stock for free-growing roses, on soils un- 

 favourable to the briar, and where roses 

 on their own roots would starve. Never- 

 theless the Manetti does well on stiff rich 

 heavy soils, and is perhaps more adaptable 

 in its nature than any variety of rose in cul- 

 tivation. People ask what it is and where 



it comes from. Mr. 



Rivers disposes of 



those questions in a 



few words, in his 



book, the best of the 



class extant, t; The 



Rose Amateur's 



Guide." He says, "I 



received it, some 20 



years' since, from 



Como, from Signor 



Crivelli, who recom- Fig. 1. 



mended it as the very best of all roses 



for a stock. It was raised from seed by 



Signor Manetti, of the Botanic Gardens at 



