160 



THE GARDEN GUIDE FOE JULY. 



' "Watering. — A few remarks on water- 

 ing may be useful lieie. As a rule, water 

 should never be given until the further 

 withholding of it would be detrimental to 

 the plants. Plants left to battle with 

 drought send their roots down deep in 

 search of moisture, and when rain does 

 come, they benefit more by it than those 

 that have regular wateiings all along. If 

 the ground is dug deeply, and kept in 

 good heart, plants that have once got 

 established will bear drought for almost 

 any length of time; but things lately 

 planted, and that have not had time to 

 "get hold," must be kept supplied. Suc- 

 culent vegetables, too, which ought to be 

 kept growing quick, must have abundance; 

 and of course plants in pots must have 

 sufficient. There are two important points 

 to be attended to in giving water : one is 

 to expose the water to the sun before using 

 it, to render it soft and warm; and the 

 other is to give a thorough soaking at 

 once, sufficient to keep the ground moist 

 for a week. Supposing the supply to be 

 limited but regiuar, the best way of econo- 

 mizing botli water and time is to take the 

 garden piece by piece, watering each piece 

 thoroughly every evening, and then begin- 

 ning again, as at first. Surface spriaklings 

 bring the roots to the surface in search of 

 the moisture, which, when they reach it, 

 is insufficient to nourish them, but, on the 

 contraiy, causes exhaustion, by inducing 

 the growth of fibres within reach of the 

 burning rajs of the sun. Plants in pots, 

 in windows, and on gravel paths, are very 

 much tried by the heating fiction of the 

 sun, and to ke±p their roots cool, it is ad- 

 visable to diop the pots into larger ones, 

 and fill between the two with moss. This 

 is the proper way to use ornamental pots, 

 and the dressing of mess may be made to 

 hide the inside pot which contains the 

 plant, by arranging it neatly over the sur- 

 face of the soil. 



Kitchen Garden. — Where early crops 

 -are coming off, clear the ground, and dig 

 it over at once; it is a folly to wait for the 

 last handful of peas or beans. As soon as 

 the tows cease to be profitable, destroy 

 them, and clear the ground. Dig deep, 

 and plant out Brussels sprouts, green col- 

 lards, kale, savoys, cabbages, broccolis, etc. 

 If the plants are crowded in the seed-bed, 

 it is best to get them out at once. Have 

 all ready, and in the evening put out as 

 many rows as possible, and give a little 

 water to even$- plant. Next morning lay 



a few boughs or mats over them, to shade 

 eff the sun, and the next evening get out 

 more, till the planting is finished. This is 

 better than waiting for rain, which may 

 be so heavy as to render the ground unfit 

 to be trodden on, and, if succeeded imme- 

 diately by heat, the plants will ilag as 

 much as if put out in dry weather, whereas, 

 being already in the ground, the smallest 

 shower benefits them. Seed-beds for winter 

 spinach should now be made up and well 

 manured, and the seed got in without 

 delay. In gathering French and runner 

 beans, take all or none. If seed is desired, 

 leave a row untouched. Never take green 

 pods and seeds from the same plants. 

 Take up cnions, shallots, and garlic as they 

 ripen, and store for winter. Give asparagus 

 beds plenty of liquid manure, and use the 

 grass mowings iiom the lawn as mulch- 

 ings, to prevent the soil from cracking. 

 Earth up celery for early use, but the rows 

 that are not forward must be kept open 

 and well watered, as the plants grow very 

 slowly after being earthed up, ti.e object 

 of the earthing being to blanch it only. 

 Also plant out the main crop of celery as 

 soon as the ground can be got ready. Cut 

 down artichokes. Hoe between all grow- 

 ing crops, and especially between potatoes. 

 Top runners, and keep them well staked. 

 Sow the last succession of runners and 

 French beans; also lettuce, endive, Stadt- 

 holder and Mitchell's cauliflower, radish, 

 small salads, spinach, peas, and turnips. 

 Land ljing high and dry may be planted 

 with potatoes now, for use early next 

 spring. 



Fruit Garden. — Keep gooseberry and 

 currant bushes open in the centre, and 

 leave on the bush-fruits only as much 

 wood as will bear a line crop next season. 

 Cuttings of gooseberries and cm rants may 

 be struck now in a moist shady border. 

 Mulch raspberries with half-rotten dung. 

 Strawberry beds now want special atten- 

 tion. Strong-rooted runners should be 

 taken off to form new plantations, and be 

 pricked out into well-manured beds, pretty 

 close together, to strengthen, preparatory 

 to making new beds in September; or 

 they may be laid in small pots, with a 

 stcne or peg to fix them, and will root 

 directly. After three years, strawberry 

 beds cease to pay, and should be broken 

 up, and the giound trenched for winter 

 crops. Tie in and train as needful, and 

 use the syrinpe to wall trees, if the weather 

 should be dry, and especially with east 



