MARCH, 55 



sap, causing the lower buds to break more readily and much stronger. 

 I have seen pot Vines in many places grown without stopping, and 

 generally I have observed the base of the shoots quite bare, a thing 

 I never saw on the stopping system. 



The season to commence forcing of course depends on the time 

 when ripe fruit is required ; generally speaking, it takes five months 

 to bring Grapes to maturity from estabUshed Vines ; but in pots it is 

 possible to grow them in much less time, owing to the roois being 

 under command of heat. The treatment given to fruiting Vines 

 generally answers for the pot-culture ; the only difference is, the 

 Vines in pots require no more young wood than is absolutely neces- 

 sary to bring the fruit to maturity ; but the want of space prevents 

 me from entering into details on this point. I will now proceed 

 with directions for feeding the fruiting plants, &c. 



When the fruit is set, place bottom-pans under each pot with 

 some strong manure in each, and mulch the surface of the pot with 

 the same ; cut round pieces of turf to surface each pot with ; but it 

 must be cut a little larger than the pot it is intended for, and when 

 placed (grass downwards) it will be raised in the centre in the form 

 of a small mound, a small hole being left in the centre of the turf 

 for air, and the convenience of watering. A very great advantage 

 is derived from covering the surface of the pots with turf ; it not 

 only shades the top-roots from the scorching sun, but encourages 

 the plants to make new feeders at the base of the stem, from which 

 the plants receive their principal support. They will now require 

 liquid manure ; and as the Vine is naturally a gross feeder, it should 

 be given in abundance during the first and second swelling, but clear 

 water should be used during the process of stoning. As soon as the 

 fruit begins to colour, discontinue manure- water ; at that stage do 

 not allow the bottom-pans to remain full of water, or the plants to 

 suffer for the want of it, otherwise the fruit will not colour, and will 

 also be deficient in flavour. Should any worms make their appear- 

 ance in the pots, give a good watering of strong lime-water, which 

 will soon destroy them, and not injure the plants. 



All kinds of Grapes are not suited for pot- culture ; therefore in 

 the following list those only are enumerated which I have proved 

 and found serviceable for this purpose : 



5. Black Tripoli, 



6. Black Esperione. 



7. Royal Muscadine. 



8. White Frontignan. 



The Black and White Corinth (or the currant of commerce) is 

 a nice little Grape, and w^orthy of cultivation ; the berries are small, 

 but they are very sweet and stoneless ; both varieties are admirably 

 adapted for pot- culture, and produce enormous crops. 



The best compost I have found for pot Vines is turf from an 

 old pasture, using it as taken from the field, with a mixture of leaf- 

 mould, and a fourth part sheep or other strong manure. In potting, 

 do not press the soil too firmly in the pots, otherwise the plants 

 * Where six varieties only are grown, those marked thus * are most suitable. 



1. Black Hamburgh.* 



2. Black Muscadine. 



3. Black Frontignan.* 



4. Black St. Peter's.* 



9. White Muscadine.* 



10. White Bual. 



11. Grizzly Frontignan.* 



12. Dutch Sweet Water. 



