272 SAND-PLAINii OF BELGIUM. [Feb. 



walking by the side of a cart drawn by a couple of dogs. They 

 were mostly alone, or sometimes two of them might be seen together, 

 but never accompanied by a man. They walked in a peculiar 

 manner, taking long strides with a somewhat languid gait, as if 

 they were in the habit of walking in the sand ; and there was 

 something odd about their countenance and demeanour, which 

 harmonised with the austerity of their garb. He asked a Dutch 

 friend who they were. ' Go to Scheveningen,' was the only 

 answer he got ; and thus was it that he was led to visit the village." 



I have spoken of this as a fashionable watering-place. I did not 

 do so, however, with reference to the cottages to let, of which 

 mention has been made. The Italian visitor whom I have quoted 

 goes on to tell : — " Scheveningen is not only renowned for the 

 eccentricity of its inhabitants, which attracts many foreigners to 

 visit, and allures artists to paint it. There are two large bathing 

 establishments, the summer resort of English, Eussian, German, 

 and Danish tourists, of the cream of the northern aristocracy, of 

 princes and ministers of state, of half the Almanach De Gotha in 

 short ; and balls, gorgeous illuminations, fireworks upon the watei-, 

 follow each other in rapid succession during the season. Both 

 houses are situated upon the dunes. At all hours of the day a 

 vehicle, resembling an itinerating showman's booth, drawn by a 

 stout horse, may be seen going down the beach towards the sea, 

 suddenly turning round, and one or more ladies stepping out of it, 

 and beginning to splash about in the water, leaving their golden 

 hair to the mercy of the sea-breeze. By night the air rings with 

 music ; the bathers issue forth ; the beach is thronged with a 

 festive gaily-dressed motley crowd speaking a babel of tongues and 

 languages, and radiant with happy faces from all countries. A few 

 steps beyond this festive scene, the gloomily-disposed stranger will 

 find the dark lonely dunes where the sound of the band playing 

 on the promenade faintly falls upon his ear like a far-off echo, and 

 where the lights twinkhng in the cottage windows fill his mind 

 with thoughts of home and unruffled repose." 



The contrast between life in the hotel, and the solitude of the 

 dunes, gave to me a strange feeling of incongruity. But tliere it 

 was ; the visitor might have either, or both alternately. But he 

 could not escape from the sand. It seemed to me that from 

 morning till night the porter was engaged unceasingly in sweeping 

 out the drifting sand from the entrance hall, but only to make room 

 for more. Well, be it so, Scheveningen — sand — sand — sand ! 



At intervals, or rather I should say with here and there interrup- 



