The Weekly Florists^ Review, 



37 



Table Winning First Premium at the San Francisco Exhibition May J6 to 19. Exhibited bv F. Pelicano & Co. 



be planted in flats of good soil and al- 

 lowed to remain in the Hats until the fol- 

 lowing spring, when they ina\- In- planted 

 out in the open ground at aliout the 

 same time as carnations, well cultivated 

 during the season, and in the fall should 

 be lifted and potted into 5-inch or 6-inch 

 pots, according to size, neatl.y staked 

 up and tied, and if well done will soon 

 attract the attention of customers. 



And from the fact that ivies generally 

 are shade-loving plants it is not so diffi- 

 cult to find a place for some of them in 

 the fall, for they will flourish under the 

 edge of a bench or stored among other 

 plants, though in common with even the 

 hardiest of plants a little attention will 

 be repaid by better results. 



W. H. Taplin. 



GREENHOUSE GRAPES. 



R. S. C. has a grapery in which the 

 vines don't break good. Boiler is too 

 small, so he has to freeze the vines in 

 winter. Also has a vine of Barbarossa 

 three years old that does not fruit 

 though growing strongly. 



The fact that the vines get frozen 

 should not militate against their break- 

 ing properly if they are handled right. 

 After the wood is ripe the vines should 

 be pruned and laid down and covered 

 with mats or leaves, or anything that 

 will keep ofl' the sun. It is always un- 

 derstood that it is not the freezing of a 

 phmt that causes trouble but the al- 

 ternate freezing and thawing. We have 

 Ijeen troubled here by young vines break- 

 ing irregularly that never were frozen, 

 and I have seen the same thing at other 

 places. 



What is the cause of it no one seems 

 definitely able to state. The trouble is 

 only on the last year's wood from which 

 the bud at the base of the past year's 



shoot refuses to break freely. When the 

 wood is two years old and has formed a 

 spur it breaks freely enough. 



I take it the vine's of R. S. C. are all 

 young since he speaks of his .3-year-old 

 Barbarossa. As his vines get older he 

 will find the trouble will cease. One 

 man claimed it all arose from the sul- 

 phuric acid that had been used to dis- 

 solve the bone having an injurious effect 

 on the roots, but I have seen it in a 

 house where no bone whatever had been 

 used in the compost. 



The second query as to why the vine 

 of Barbarossa does not fruit is because 

 this variety is one of the most uncertain 

 of all the varieties grown to fruit prop- 

 erly. When it does fruit it will probably 

 throw an enormous bunch. I have never 

 seen more than three or four bunches on 

 a vine at once. It is only a third-rate 

 grape as regards flavor, but of course 

 the enormous bunches make it popular in 

 some quarters. The experts tell us that 

 the proper name of this variety is Gros 

 Guillaunie, and that the true Barbarossa 

 is a red grape. Chas. Tottt. 



THE SAN FRANCISCO SHOW. 



We present in this issue two engrav- 

 ings from photographs of displays at 

 the San Francisco exhibition, which was 

 fully reported in our issue of May 23. 

 They indicate that the florists of the 

 Pacific coast are able to show first-class 

 stock in cut flowers as well as in plants. 

 It must have been a very instructive as 

 well as interesting exhibition. 



"RETURNS SATISFACTORY." 



That's what the Vick & Hill Co., Roch- 

 ester, N. Y., report regarding their clas- 

 sified advs. in the RE\aEW. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES. 



The cuttings for use as single stem 

 plants in 6-inch pots should now be 

 rooted. The classes for this particular 

 kind of plants always make an exception- 

 ally good feature at the fall exhibitions 

 if the plants have been well grown. As 

 soon as they are rooted pot up into 2A- 

 inch pots, and from that to the flowering 

 size, 6-inch. The chief points to observe 

 are not to let the young plants get pot 

 bound, and never let them get dried out 

 in the pots. If they are allowed to get 

 dry a few times the wood will get hard 

 and the bottom foliage will die oflF. leav- 

 ing several inches of bare stem visible, 

 while the ideal single stem pot plant 

 should have foliage from the pot right 

 up to the flower. 



Dwarf sturd.v varieties are the best 

 to use for this' purpose, Robinson being 

 the universal favorite. Other good va- 

 rieties are Sunderbruch, Morel (if you 

 can get it good), Appleton, Wedding, 

 Merza, Bonnaffon, Nellie Pockett and 

 Mrs. Barkley. Almost any variety will 

 do well for this purpose, in fact, provid- 

 ing said variet.y has a compact habit. A 

 good place to grow these plants after 

 their final potting is in a sheltered posi- 

 tion outside, where they will be protect- 

 ed from violent storms and where they 

 could be plunged in a bed of coal ashes 

 to keep the roots cool and moist. 



In going over your plants nowadays 

 ,you will occasionall,y notice on the under 

 side of the leaves a small circular patch 

 of tiny yellow eggs. They are the eggs 

 of butterflies, and if not' removed will 

 soon hatch out an assortment of cater- 

 pillars whose appetite can only be 

 equaled by a Weary Willie after a six 

 days' fast. July and August are the 

 worst months for caterpillars but strag- 



