THE VOYAGE OF THE HASSLER 125 



They are not now in Rio de Janeiro, but are living 

 at their summer palace in PetropoHs and were in 

 town only for the day. 



This morning we took the boat for town at half -past 

 six o'clock; it is so hot all excursions must be made at 

 an early hour. Arrived in town, we took the horse cars 

 which now go to the very gate of the Botanical Gar- 

 den. You can now do with perfect comfort for twenty- 

 five cents what we used to do in a carriage at a cost 

 of some six or eight dollars each time. I thought the 

 drive more beautiful than in old times — the beautiful 

 bays enclosed like lakes among the mountains; the 

 peaks of Tijuca and Corcovado with the light morn- 

 ing clouds hovering against them; the gardens glow- 

 ing with flowers and filled with shade trees; and then, 

 at last, the great avenue of palms, symmetrical and 

 impressive as a cathedral aisle. I felt that memory 

 had not exaggerated anything, but that the whole 

 scenery here, all the natural features, are even more 

 striking and unlike what I have seen elsewhere than I 

 supposed. When the Emperor comes back, he will say 

 he has seen nothing since he left Brazil more beauti- 

 ful than his own home. Coming out from the Garden 

 at about half-past eight o'clock we found at the gate 

 a very pretty little French hotel w^hich I do not re- 

 member when I was here before. In the grounds 

 outside under large shade trees were placed tables 

 and chairs, and there we breakfasted, having only 

 taken a cup of coffee when we left the ship early in the 

 morning. I find many flowers which were not in bloom 

 when I was here before, in what they consider their 



