THE VOYAGE OF THE HASSLER 141 



steep bold cliffs at either end, we could see the sea 

 lions sitting on the beach, and the bold bluffs above 

 were literally studded thick with birds, penguins 

 and cormorants chiefly. Immediately after break- 

 fast we all went on shore, three boats full, for all 

 were anxious to see this famous breeding place of 

 birds and haunt of seals. I despair of describing it 

 to you. The whole face of the cliff and the hill- 

 side above are perforated with large openings which 

 are the homes of penguins, cormorants and geese. As 

 our boat neared the shore these throngs of birds 

 (literally hundreds and thousands) broke up and we 

 could see the penguins walking along the edge of the 

 cliff in lines, single file, looking like gaunt little old 

 women with their waddling gait and stubby wings, 

 which they use partly as legs, hanging down like 

 short scant petticoats. When we came to the slope of 

 the hill above the cliff, they had scuttled away or re- 

 treated to their nests. I sat down at the front doors of 

 many families and watched them in their houses; for 

 these nests have such large openings that you can 

 see inside perfectly. They have a comical way, when 

 sitting within their holes, of turning their heads con- 

 stantly from side to side as if in earnest conversa- 

 tion, but without noise, though when disturbed, angry 

 or frightened, they utter a hoarse cry, but in their 

 nests they seem to be carrying on a silent colloquy 

 every now and again, touching and rubbing their 

 bills together. After looking at them for a long while I 

 went to the edge of the hill where I could see the face 

 of the cliff and watched them there. It was curious 



