1869.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 17 



as good and strong as the others probably will be which remained in the 

 seed-rows, it will be quite unnecessary to cut them, as they w^ill make 

 more roots, and consequently be stronger stocks than if cut. After 

 another year's growth these should again be transplanted as before, but 

 still not cut unless where the side-shoots may be pinched if long straight 

 stems are wanted for grafting standards upon. After a year's growth 

 here, they will be ready for grafting, and ought not to be transplanted, 

 as, by leaving them thus the year before grafting, they will have more 

 root-energy to support the scion than if they were struggling to over- 

 come the check consequent upon transplantation. Let a tree or plant 

 be removed with as much care as possible, it still receives a considerable 

 check, and it takes at the very least one year's good treatment to en- 

 able it to recover itself ; so that a young stock to be operated upon, if 

 removed the year of grafting, would not be in nearly such good condi- 

 tion for receiving and nourishing a scion as if it w^ere fully established 

 and in a vigorous condition, for the check sustained by being headed 

 over is of itself sufficient without receiving the double blow all at once. 

 Any time from the middle of November to the middle or end of Janu- 

 ary — but December is probably the best time — the stocks to be grafted 

 upon ought to be cut back to within 4 or 6 inches of the place where 

 the graft is intended to be placed. This will depend entirely upon 

 what use the future tree is intended for. If as a standard for either 

 open garden or wall, the height of cutting ought to vary from 3 to 6 

 feet. The general height for standards is about 3 feet when grafted, 

 so that if cut at 3 feet now, and 6 inches removed when the graft is 

 inserted, the height of the grafted tree will be about 3 feet. Standards 

 for walls — or riders, as they are commonly called — are from 5 to 6 feet 

 stem, and consequently will require a year or two longer before being 

 ready for grafting, but will, when ready, require to be cut over about the 

 desired length and at the usual time, and have 4 or 6 inches more removed 

 when grafting season comes. Those intended for grafting as dwarfs for 

 the open garden ought to be cut at about 15 inches from the ground, 

 while those intended for the walls ought to be cut back to about 10 or 12 

 inches, reducing them the same as the others at the grafting season. It 

 is better to have for a dwarf standard at least 1 foot of clean stem, as, if 

 any shorter, the certainty is that in the course of a few years the under 

 branches will cumber the soil, to the total or partial expulsion of hoe and 

 spade, a state of matters very teasing to the gardener. In the matter, 

 however, of wall-trees, the case is different, as we want the under branches 

 of the trees within about 1 foot or 15 inches of the soil ; consequently we 

 must have a stem not more than 10 inches in height, so as to be able to 

 get the under branches at the proper place. James M'Millan. 



{To be continued.) 

 B 



