1869.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. Ill 



We need not here make any reference to the pruning and training 

 of espalier Pears, as the course to be pursued with them is exactly the 

 same as for wall-trees. We may state, however, that the Quince is 

 the best stock, and that we give the preference to horizontal training 

 for this purpose. Espaliers are seldom more than 6 feet high, and, if 

 a tree is planted every 16 feet, the whole space will be filled up as 

 rapidly this way as by the fan — say, ten or twelve years — and will be 

 more easily trained whether the wood or wire be erect or horizontal. 



It often falls to the part of the gardener to have a lot of old trees 

 placed in his hands, with instructions to try and renovate them. 

 This is not an easy matter to accomplish, and ought never to be 

 undertaken unless the trees are worth the labour and the undertaker 

 is pretty sure of success ; because, if he attempt and fail, he not only 

 disappoints himself, but also his employer, making him rather sceptical 

 about his abilities, and distrustful about any future suggestions he 

 may make regarding any improvement about the place. Before com- 

 ing to any definite conclusion regarding the practicability of renovat- 

 ing old fruit-trees, there are various things to consider. First, examine 

 the tree all over, to see whether it is infested with scale, aphis, or any 

 of the many insects which are its enemies, and also whether it be free 

 from canker or not. If any or all of these, as is sometimes the case, 

 abound, renounce at once the idea of doing anything with it, as such 

 a tree will take years of toil and trouble before the evils are overcome, 

 by which time a young tree would be into bearing and producing 

 better fruit. Secondly, should the tree have none of the evils above 

 enumerated, the cultivator must not leap all at once to the conclusion 

 that the tree is worth renovating, but should proceed to examine tbe 

 roots, which are at once the mouth and true fountain of existence, and, 

 having carefully dug right round the tree, ascertained its condition. 

 If he find that the roots stretch downwards into the bad subsoil, and 

 outwardly for 20 or 30 feet, exhibiting long " carroty " roots, without 

 any fibrous rootlets, let him at once relinquish all thoughts about it, 

 except to have it removed to the rubbish-heap. If, however, the tree 

 should have become unproductive owing to a portion of its roots 

 having permeated too deeply into the subsoil, while another portion 

 appears healthy and good, with plenty of good young rootlets abound- 

 ing within a radius of 10 feet of its base, and if, as I have already 

 said, the trunk and branches are pretty free from their enemies, the 

 tree may be operated upon with hopes of success. This operation 

 may be performed any time from October till the end of March, but 

 we prefer doing it pretty early. Let all the branches, if a wall-tree, 

 be undone and tied up into little bundles, which may be loosely hung 

 to the wall for convenience, as well as for safety. Cut a trench right 



