1869.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 499 



about this time, at least to within an inch or so of that height. Our 

 object in leaving a little more than what is needed is to be prepared 

 in case frost might crack the stock, so that we can spare a piece of 

 the top to cut it down to the sound wood. The time when this 

 operation may best be performed will depend on circumstances, condi- 

 tions, and varieties. We might say from the middle of March 

 to the middle of April is the best or only time to do this ; but 

 in place of doing so we will simply say that the best time is when the 

 stock is fairly on the move, and the scion shows signs of starting. In 

 this, as in all other cases, we prefer the stock to be in advance of the 

 scion, and the reasons we give in this case are identical with those 

 given when treating upon this point in a former article. In the case 

 of grafting Plums, it is sometimes necessary to take the top or ter- 

 minal portion of the shoot. Especially where the trees from which 

 the scions are taken are very old is this the case, as many of the 

 shoots made by such trees seldom possess more than one or two wood- 

 buds ; and where there is only one, that one is always terminal. In 

 the case of young healthy trees, this will not be necessary, as they pro- 

 duce wood-buds in abundance, and the graft maybe selected from the best 

 and ripest portion of the shoot. Any of the modes of grafting which 

 we have recommended when speaking of the Pear and Apple will do for 

 the Plum. As it is sometimes difficult to form a union in grafting the 

 Plum, we would recommend drawing the earth up over the point of union ; 

 which, by excluding the atmosphere and keeping the scion in a more moist 

 condition than it could be without, will greatly facilitate a union, and 

 will at the same time keep the graft free from the violence of the storm. 

 This of course only applies to those trees grafted a few inches from the 

 ground ; those grafted at standard height must be steadied by a stake, 

 and have a good supply of moss tied over the clay after the operation 

 is finished. This moss must be kept regularly moistened in dry 

 weather, and when regularly attended to in that way will be of much 

 service in efFectino^ a union. 



Where budding is resorted to, shield-budding we consider to be 

 the best ; and, as a consequence, the autumn is the time to perform it. 

 Circumstances alone can definitely point out the date, but, as a rule, at 

 the beginning of August or end of July will be found to answer the 

 jmrpose best. The beginner in matters of this sort must be very 

 careful not to waste his labours in vain by taking flower in place of 

 wood buds. Wood-buds are always distinguished from flower-buds by 

 their more slender and pointed appearance, while flower-buds are always 

 known by their round plump look. The bud ought to remain dormant 

 during the first autumn and winter, and push immediately into growth 

 the following season. In the course of a few weeks the operator may 



