1869.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 253 



ready for operating upon than the seedling plants. I would always 

 be careful, however, not to spend time and trouble upon any old stock, 

 unless I were sure that it was in a healthy condition about the roots. 

 The same materials will be in demand at grafting-time as have been 

 already recommended. Having all things ready, the operator takes 

 his knife, and with it makes a slit longitudinally for 2 or 3 inches, 

 after which he must gently raise the bark with the bone handle of a 

 budding-knife — being as careful as possible not to hurt or lift the 

 alburnum — until the opening be large enough to receive the scion. 

 The scion is prepared in exactly the same way as for whip-grafting, 

 except that no tongue is made thereupon ; it is then introduced into 

 the place ready for its reception ; the bark of the stock is tied firmly 

 down upon it with mat, clay or wax is applied, as in other grafting, a 

 layer of moss is tied over the whole, and the operation is finished. 

 According to the size of the stock will be the number of the grafts 

 inserted. As a rule, one scion for every 3 inches in circumference 

 of the stock will be found sufficient. Mr Thomson, in the 'Gardener's 

 Assistant,' recommends that, the stock being circular, the scion ought 

 to be cut with a cavity or hollow, so as neatly to fit into or upon the 

 stock — his reason being, " so that its inner bark might be in immediate 

 contact with the layer of cambium from which the bark of the stock 

 was raised." This, no doubt, is an admirable suggestion where the 

 stock operated upon is 2 or 3 inches in diameter ; but where the stock 

 is much larger than this, it will be quite unnecessary, as the part of a 

 circle described in the small space used for grafting will be so small 

 that a scion cut flat will fit well enough without any such operation. 



It may also be as well to here describe the mode of budding in most 

 general use for the Apple and Pear. It sometimes will happen that in 

 young trees blanks will occur where it would be desirable to have a 

 branch or form a spur. In such a case the best plan to adopt will be to 

 insert a bud. 



The best time to perform this operation is about the end of July or 

 beginning of August, although it may also be performed in spring, when 

 the flow of sap is such as will allow of the wood to freely part with the 

 bark of the bud. At this time of the year the bud to be used will be 

 taken from the former year's growth. We do not, however, consider 

 this nearly such a good time as about midsummer or a little after, as 

 buds inserted at that time do not start into growth soon enough to en- 

 able them to perfect their wood before the season of rest. By inserting 

 it at the proper time in summer, it will remain dormant all winter, after 

 having effected a union, and will be ready in spring to start into growth 

 with the rest of the tree. 



There are various modes of budding which will answer for this pur- 



