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The Weekly Florists' Review^ 



75 



A Christmas Basket. 



The rose Queen of Edgely, which is a 

 sport from the Beauty, requires exactly 

 the same treatment. The bud is the 

 same shape and quite as large; the color 

 a very pleasing pink, several shades 

 lighter than the Beauty. Eibes. 



A CHRISTMAS BASKET. 



We present herewith an engraving 

 from a photograph of a basket recently 

 seen at the store of Mr. E. Wienhoeber, 

 Chicago. 



The basket is of silver birch bark, 

 filled with a Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, 

 with a sash of light green Porto Riean 

 matting tied with a bow of dark green 

 ribbon. The effect was very fine and 

 this arrangement with variations in the 

 colors of the trimmings will no doubt be 

 a very strong seller this coming Christ- 

 mas. 



GENERAL PROPAGATION. 



IRf'lul before the Tarrytowa. N. Y.. Horlicul- 

 tiu-al Society.] 



This subject certainly is most compre- 

 hensive in its latitude. The area it cov- 

 ers is almost boundless. We, therefore, 

 propose to speak tonight only on that 

 part of the field relating to the vegeta- 

 ble world and leave the outside realm to 

 those whose opportunities are more fa- 

 vored for investigation. We shall treat 

 only of the reproduction or increase of 

 plants by seeds, cuttings, layers and 

 rootlets. 



We propose to speak only as to the 

 methods and results of our own experi- 

 ence. Probably each one of you has 

 some favorite method of his own by 

 which he has obtained most satisfactory 

 results, and should your humble servant 

 succeed in affording even a hint to any 

 one of this society that will lead him 

 to a new and better method than that 



which he now practices, and by which 

 he shall obtain more satisfactory results 

 than those which he at present obtains, 

 his expectations will be far more than 

 realized. 



We will first speak of the production 

 of plants from seeds, which for the most 

 part is nature's method. And just here 

 I will say that I am often more than 

 surprised that the amateur fiorist suc- 

 ceeds as well as he does in germinating 

 seeds and obtaining results at all satis- 

 factory, while we, who have spent a 

 good part of a lifetime at the work, are 

 so often disappointed. 



it is usually the case with extremely 

 minute seeds, those like particles of dust, 

 that we find our greatest trouble; for 

 example, begonia or petunia seed and the 

 like. For such seed we take the great- 

 est care in the preparation of the soil, 

 making it about equal parts of good pot- 

 ting soil, sand and leaf-mould, mixing 

 these ingredients thoroughly, then pass- 

 ing them through a sieve of about J-inch 

 mesh. This preparation of soil being 

 completed, we usually take a shallow 

 box or flat, say one-half of a milk-can 

 box, which is about 3 inches deep; bore 

 six linch holes in the bottom, cover it 

 with about one inch of sphagnum moss, 

 which we saturate with moisture. Over 

 the moss we place our prepared soil, 

 filling the flat even full, compress it 

 moderately with a flat trowel or board 

 (do not make the soil too firm). 



We then wet the soil thoroughly by 

 several sprayings, observing not to apply 

 sufficient water at one time to render the 

 soil muddy (by all means avoid that 

 condition). It is intended that this 

 moisture will remain until the seeds 

 germinate. Over the surface we then 

 sift a very light coat, say J-inch, of the 

 same prepared soil, using a sieve of 

 about J-inch mesh, taking pains to sift 

 it evenly over the entire surface of the 



d;un|)en('d soil. Leave it in that con- 

 dition, do not compress it, but leave it 

 open and porous, that the fine seeds 

 may find lodgement between the particles 

 of 'soil and thus gather more moisture 

 tlian they would resting on a smooth, 

 hard surface. 



The seed is then placed on a smooth 

 piece of cardboard and carefully and 

 evenly dusted over the soil. We then 

 set the flat aside where it will not be 

 exposed to any strong currents of air, 

 and cover it with wire netting of about 

 -]-inch mesh, over which we spread about 

 one inch of damp, loose sphagnum moss. 

 This covering can be lifted at any time 

 if needs be to examine the seed and at 

 the same time it retains an even mois- 

 ture to the soil and allows sufficient air 

 to reach both soil and seed. If the moss 

 at any time shows dryness, dampen it 

 with a fine spray. Watch your seed 

 carefully. When you think it has had 

 sufficient time to germinate (if needs be, 

 use a magnifying glass), but do not 

 water it unless it becomes absolutely 

 necessary, which condition should not 

 occur unless the moss above has been 

 neglected. 



As soon as you find that the seed is 

 fairly well sprouted remove the screen 

 and "moss and replace it with a pane of 

 glass, allowing a small air space at 

 the sides of the box. Cover the glass for 

 a time with a sheet of tissue paper, 

 and when moisture is needed use a very 

 fine spray. Apply the water slowly, but 

 use enough to meet all needs for several 

 days, if possible. Too frequent water- 

 ings has a tendency to sour the soil, but 

 do not, even for an hour, allow the sur- 

 face to become dry, which condition is 

 sure death to the 'young plants. Over- 

 watering is nearly or quite as destruc- 

 tive. I mean too frequent applications 

 of water. Be sure to allow no strong 

 sunlight to strike the young plantlets 

 and at the same time do not apply too 

 strong a shade. Tissue paper allows 

 all the light needed at this stage of 

 growth. You will find "eternal vigi- 

 lance the price of success." 



As soon as the little seedlings have 

 made sufficient growth to enable them 

 to be handled, be sure to prick them off, 

 or transplant them into fresh soil. Seed- 

 lings like these I usually allow about 

 one square inch of space. Be sure that 

 this work is carefully done, that the fine 

 rootlets are not injured, and that they 

 are down full length into the new soil. 

 If the soil in which they were sown is 

 allowed to approach slight dryness be- 

 fore they are removed it facilitates the 

 lifting of them without injury to the 

 roots. After transplanting, water care- 

 fully with fine spray and shade until 

 they are nicely started in their new 

 home, observing to shade carefully until 

 well under way. Never allow them to 

 flag or wilt at any time. 



If by neglect or oversight they at any 

 time become wilted, I prefer to satu- 

 rate a sheet of paper with water and 

 lay the wetted side next to the plants, 

 as near as possible, but not allow it to 

 rest upon them. This I prefer to imme- 

 diate watering. As soon as they stiffen 

 up you can then apply the water, but 

 do not use a heavy spray. 



The larger sized seeds, such as salvias, 

 myosotis and- verbenas, etc., are treated 

 in the following manner: Use good 

 friable potting loam, screen as before 

 described, level the soil carefully in the 

 flat, compress slightly, then sow the seed. 

 When sown compress soil and seed to- 

 gether. This done, water thoroughly 



