Maucb id, 1902. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review^ 



577 



makes sometimes neater, better formed 

 flowers, tliey are invariably much 

 smaller. an<l in the case of some sorts 

 like tlie Carnot varieties, the terminal 

 biKl is absolutely worthless. It is a 

 mistake to use the crown bud when the 

 plants are growing very closely together, 

 because then they generally run up a 

 long, thin neck, which is unable to sup- 

 port the flower, but this trouble will not 

 occur when plants have been properly 

 handled and grown sufficiently far apart. 

 , When the buds begin to show color, 

 feeding should he altogether discontinued, 

 and a drier atmosphere maintained. Al- 

 ways leave a crack of air on the top of 

 the house to prevent the moisture con- 

 densing on the petals, as this causes the 

 flower to damp. Less and less water will 

 be needed at the roots as the flower de- 

 velops, and a night temperature of 45 



end of July. About that time the plants 

 should have their last potting, and after 

 the ])ots are full of roots feeding with 

 liquid fertilizers must be religiously at- 

 tended to. Specimen plants, owing to 

 their restricted root area, require much 

 more feeding than plants in benches, and 

 when one considers the enormous top they 

 • carry, the need of adequate nourishment 

 is apparent. Training the plants into 

 shape must be attended to in good sea- 

 son, and a wire frame will be found much 

 neater than a forest of stakes. 



Insects and Diseases. 



There are several leaf diseases due al- 

 most invariably to a heavy soil, and an 

 over supply of water. The rust is also 

 first in evidence on plants that are kept 

 too wet. We have been successful in 

 keeping down all these diseases by the 



witt the plants throwing buds when they 

 ought ta be making good healthy shoots. 

 In short, get to know your plants as a 

 mother knows her babe. Then you will 

 never need to worry about a success- 

 ful outcome of your labors. 



The following are what I regard as th>; 

 best varieties to grow for exhibition : 



White. — Robinson, Weeks, Merza, 

 Mme. Carnot, Eaton, Mutual Friend and 

 Mme. Deis. 



Yellow. — Appleton, Hurrell, Wedding, 

 Goldmine, Warren, Mrs. Mease, Falconer. 



Pink. — Morel, Mrs. Coombs, A. J. Eal 

 four, Mrs. Barkley, Bloodgood. 



Any other color. — Broomhead, Nellie 

 Pockett, Lady Anglesey, Chenon de 

 Leche, Mrs. T. Carrington and Australia. 



In conclusion, if you are desirous of 

 placing the chrysanthemum where it be- 

 longs, join the Chrysanthemum Society 



Partial View of the Greenhouses and Store of G. Van Bochove & Bro., Kalamazoo, Mich. 



to 50 degrees will be found to give the 

 best results. 



Flowers should always be placed in 

 water for from twelve to thirty-six hours, 

 according to the distance they are to be 

 shipped, always being careful to see that 

 the stems are upright, so as to allow an 

 uninterrupted upward movement of the 

 water to the flower. Always arrange 

 things so that j'ou have lots of time to 

 set up your flowers when you get to the 

 exhibition hall. If the other fellow gets 

 first, don't get mad but take him out 

 for a liquid appetizer and ask him how 

 he did it. A man has to be a good deal 

 of a philosopher to be a mum exhibitor 

 sometimes. 



But we will return to our growing. 

 Classes for plants in 6-inch pots appear 

 in most schedules, and for these the 

 plants are rooted in May or early June. 

 •Owing to the fact that the w'eather is so 

 warm at that period, these young plants 

 need a good deal of attention vmtil they 

 };et potted up into the flowering pots. 

 Dwarf, sturdy varieties only should be 

 used for this work, and never let the 

 iplants get dry. A perfect plant should 

 liave foliage clear down to the pot. 



•Specimen plants are a magnificent fea- 

 ture of a show when well grown. They 

 represent an immense amount of labor 

 and care. Cuttings for this work can be 

 rooted from December onwards. They 

 must be kept continually on the move. 

 When the young i)lants are about eight 

 inches high they should be topped, and 

 this pinching must continue until the 



use of sulphide of potassium, used in 

 the proportion of one ounce to two gal- 

 lons of water. It is always well to use 

 tliis mixture once a week in the spring 

 as a preventive measure. Black ami 

 green fly can be easily kept in check by 

 tobacco in some form. Caterpillars are 

 a bad pest some seasims, and as with 

 the grasshoppers, hand-picking seems the 

 only efficient remedy. Thrips and red 

 spiders are more or less troublesome, but 

 can be kept down by a judicious use of 

 the hose. 



The man who first said "Eternal vigi- 

 lance is the price of a good chrysanthe- 

 mum" hit the mark exactly. If a little 

 aphis appears on the plants don't think, 

 "Well, it isn't much, I won't bother with 

 it," for a day or two. Get rid of it right 

 away. Just as soon as a plant has filled 

 its pot with roots, move it into a larger 

 one. If you happen to notice that a 

 batch of plants are dry, don't leave them 

 for an hour or so. Get your hose and 

 water them at once. Attention to just 

 these little details is often the only dif- 

 ference between the successful and the 

 unsuccessful. 



I cannot impress it too strongly on the 

 novice that a chrysanthemum should 

 never get a check of any kind from the 

 day it is put into the cutting bench 

 until the flower is cut. Get the young 

 plants out of the sand when the roots 

 are about half an inch long. Then they 

 will not get drawn and spindly. Plant 

 out your young stock before it gets pot- 

 bound, then you will not be troubled 



of America and remember that all true 

 chrysanthenuim worshipers go to heaven 

 when they die. 



A HARDY BORDER. 



Please tell me what to use and how 

 to plant a border seven feet wide and one 

 hundred and forty feet long. I have 

 an order to plant it with hardy shrubs 

 and hardy herbaceous perennials. It 

 must contain subjects that will supply 

 bloom from April to Noxember, and look 

 neat in foliage when not in bloom. Please 

 tell me distance apart to plant. 



Does not Ampelopsis Veitchii need pro- 

 tection in winter here, where the ther- 

 mometer sometimes goes to 20 degrees 

 below zero? J. J. L. 



Mass. 



Your correspondent is not sufficiently 

 explicit to advise properly how a border 

 seven feet wide and one hundred and 

 forty feet long ought to be planted with 

 shrubbery and herbaceous plants, to give 

 effect from April to November. The 

 relation of the border to its surroundings 

 should be given; however, the following 

 list of shrubs and herbaceous plants can 

 be recommended : 



Shrubs — Andromeda arborea, Berberis 

 Thunbergii, Berberis vulgaris, Benzoin 

 benzoin, Cornus paniculata, Cornus flori- 

 da, Cornus alba, Cydonia japonica, Hy- 

 drangea paniculata, Ligustrum ibota, Lo- 

 nicera Euprechtiana, Lonicera Morrowii, 

 Lonicera tartarica, Photina villosa, Phila- 



