JrxE IM. 190:;. 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



lOI 



Cattleya Mendelii. 



which witli the first application of firiug 

 will assiiine a sickly yellow hue. Foliage 

 of this quality becomes an easy prey to 

 mildew and leaves the plant in such a 

 condition of weak vitality that it is 

 unable to resist anj' trouble. 



Give the plants plenty of water around 

 the ball, syringe twice daily, and keep 

 the paths wet. As a measure of safety 

 the foliage should have a dusting of 

 liowers of sulphur every week. 



If thrips or green fly make their ap- 

 pearance fumigating will have to be re- 

 sorted to. This, to obtain the best re- 

 sults, should be done in the early morn- 

 ing while the glass is cool and the soil 

 in the benches comparatively dry as the 

 smoke will descend lower under these 

 conditions, and remain longer around the 

 foliage. Kibes. 



SOME ROSE QUESTIONS. 



Please let me know through the Re- 

 view what is the best to do with Bride 

 and Maid roses that have grown all win- 

 ter and not bloomed very much? 



Also please state how many eyes to 

 leave when cutting back. 



We want to fumigate with sulphur. 

 Please let us know" what caused mildew. 

 The house has not been damp, yet mil- 

 dew has been on the plants all winter. 



A SUBSCRIBEB. 



The best thing to do with these roses 

 would be to throw them out and replant 

 with young healthy stock. Plants which 

 . have been infested with mildew all win- 

 ter have been in no condition to make 

 either roots or wood fit to do profitable 

 work if carried over another season. 



If to be carried over, all the small 

 wood should be trimmed out and the 

 stronger or flower-bearing wood cut back 

 to the last three fully developed eyes. 



Fumigating with sulphur is an opera- 

 tion that should never be attempted by 

 any but an e.Kpert, and they seldom have 

 to resort to such heroic measures, pre- 

 vention being so much better than cure. 



The cause of mildew is usually ignor- 

 ance of the laws of ventilation or care- 

 lessness in their application, resulting 

 in the foliage having a flabby texture 

 which makes it susceptible to the at- 

 tacks of mildew and other pests. Proper 

 ventilation consists of a careful study of 

 the outside temperature and so regulat- 

 ing the inside temperature that there 

 will be no sudden change, as this creates 

 the condition favorable for the germina- 

 tion of mildew^ spores. 



Keep the night temperature as near 

 .58 degrees a.s the season will allow, and 

 after starting the fires keep a small 

 crack of air on all night as long as the 

 weather will admit, and on all favorable 

 occasions. The temperature on bright 

 days should be 70 or 75 degrees. In the 

 morning the ventilators should be raised 

 a little at a time as the sun gets higher, 

 until noon. In the afternoon, as the sun 

 descends they should be lowered with the 

 same care. By careful attention to these 

 rules the foliage will acquire a firmer 

 texture, which will help them to with- 

 stand in a greater degree the attacks of 

 mildew. EiBES. 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



Shading. 



"Should newly planted benches be 

 shaded?" This is a question that often 

 perplexes the beginner in chrysanthe- 

 mum growing. The gnswer to such a 

 question is: It all depends. It may 

 sometimes be necessary in the ease of a 

 house facing directly south, which 

 would get the full blaze of the sun at 



midday, and did not happen to have 

 bottom ventilation. In such a house the 

 thermometer runs up out of sight unless 

 cue stands there spraying with the hose 

 all day long. It should be remembered 

 that the chrysanthemum is a cool-grow- 

 ing plant, and, in such a case as quoted, 

 particularly if one cannot afford to 

 spend much time- syringing, a little lime 

 sprayed over th3 glass with a .syringe 

 w.ll be beneficial. It will wash off in a 

 week or two, but by that time the 

 plants will be well rooted, and will be 

 able to continue in good shape the start 

 they have made. 



Any house that is to be used for grow- 

 ing mums in ought to have side or bot- 

 tom ventilation in addition to the top 

 air, so as to be able to get a current 

 of air either through the plants or under 

 the benches. Speaking generally, chrys- 

 anthemums do not need shading after 

 being planted out, the idea being to 

 build up your jilant from the first and 

 have it produce stocky, short-jointed 

 wood, which is the kind that gives far 

 the best results. My idea in recommend- 

 ing shading under extreme conditions, is 

 because sometimes young plants in such 

 case get too hard and will not come 

 away as they should. 



Cultivating. 



Benches after planting should be kept 

 scratched up once a week. This will keep 

 the weeds killed off as they germinate, 

 and allow the water to soak into the 

 bench evenly and thoroughly. Never 

 under any conditions allow the surface 

 of the soil to become green and sour. 

 Do not neglect this work if you happen 

 to be busy, for while mums need lots of 

 water the soil must always be in a sweet 

 condition, unless you are looking for a 

 dose of leaf spot or rust. 



Doors and all ventilators should be 

 left open night and day, more particu- 

 larly nights, as the cool night air will re- 

 fresh the plants after a hot day. 



Syringing. 



Spray your plants over several times 

 a day during a hot spell, and not plants 

 alone, but the paths and glass .should be 

 wet dow n. This will keep down the tem- 

 perature considerably, and prevent red 

 spider and kindred insects from getting 

 a foothold. Care must, of course, be ex- 

 ercised to keep an excess of water off 

 the benches, or they will get in a water- 

 logged condition. Any man if he wants 

 to, can learn to spray properly. 



Fumigation. 



Now is the time to get to work and 

 rid your plants of all aphis. Get every 

 black fly killed now, and with an abso- 

 lutely clean start you can often run the 

 plants all the season till buds form, be- 

 fore again fumigating. We think we get 

 the best results from burning tobacco 

 dust, though of course any form of to- 

 bacco will do the business if properly 

 handled. 



Buds. 

 Some of you may be bothered just 

 now by your plants throwing buds in- 

 stead of going ahead and producing 

 good shoots. V-Morel is probably the 

 worst variety in this respect, though 

 sometimes many varieties will show more 

 or less of the' same trouble. The only 

 thing to do is to keep the buds picked 

 off close, and have a little patience. 

 Your plants will get to moving eventu- 

 ally and come out all right. Where a 

 , sucker appears the old plant can be cut 



