September 11, 1902. 



The Weekly Florists' Review, 



505 



Members of the Canadian Horticultural Association at the Convention at Hamilton, Ont. 



put in the frame thej- are ready to leave. 

 Be careful to shade from all sun while 

 in the frame and about a week or ten 

 days after taking them out. We find 

 Perle, Sunset and Sunrise will not do 

 grafted, but Bridesmaid, Bride, Morgan. 

 Cusin and some others have done well 

 with us on the Manetti. 



As to varieties, we grow Bride and 

 Bridesmaid, the leaders in their color. 

 Lil>erty is by far the handsomest of all 

 red roses, but we have yet to find how 

 to keep it on the move all the year 

 around, so have to fall back on our old 

 friend, the Meteor. For Morgan we find 

 an increased demand, but there is very 

 little increase in the demand for Perle, 

 Sunset and Cusin. Mme. Hoste and a 

 few others that paid well to grow at 

 one time we have had to drop. 



LATEST FACTS ABOUT CARNA- 

 TIONS. 



BY T. A. WEBB, BKAMPTOX, ONT, 



[Read berore the Canadian Horticultural Asso- 

 ■clatlon at the Hamilton Convention.) 



Now that rust and spot are almost 

 diseases of the past, anthraenose (stem- 

 rot) is troubling growers to an alarming 

 extent, and it is to so grow our plants 

 that we will not be troubled with disease 

 that I oflfer my help, trusting that 

 others, by following in the path in which 

 I have been successful as a grower, may 

 be benefited. 



The two most important things to- 

 ward success are a proper cutting bench 

 and a healthy stock to propagate from. 

 When possible I would advise that the 

 cutting bench be the north one in the 

 liouse, preferably so because it can be 

 kept cooler and more easily shaded than 

 other benches. The bench must be en- 

 closed and piped sufficiently to maintain 



a temperature of CO to 65 degrees in the 

 sand. The sand should be about four 

 inches deep in the bed, thoroughly wet 

 and firmly packed down; a brick is a 

 good thing to use to do the job right. 



For shades I would use cheesecloth 

 tacked on strips of lath, which you can 

 make the desired size to reach from the 

 front of the bench up to and under the 

 glass at the back of the bench. Such 

 shades are light and easily and quickly 

 put up and taken down as necessity re- 

 quires. To keep the cuttings healthy 

 and to give them more air than is af- 

 forded through the ventilators, I would 

 advise taking out a pane of glass every 

 fifteen or twenty feet over the cutting 

 bench to give additional air when the 

 temperature in the house is higher than 

 00 degrees. To close these openings go 

 to the hardware store and have sheet 

 iron cut to size that will easily slide up 

 or down in a frame nailed to the bars. 



I do not wish to be understood that 

 by giving much air I advocate a cur- 

 rent of air, for it would prove most 

 disastrous. Plants as well as people 

 need plenty of air to keep them in a 

 healthy condition. To illustrate: A 

 man requires 2.50 cubic feet of air every 

 hour to furnish him with a healthy sup- 

 ply of oxygen. A plant requires a pro- 

 portionate amount to supply it with its 

 needed supply of carbonic gas. To shut 

 off this needed supply of air means that 

 a smaller percentage of cuttings will 

 root, and those that do root will be 

 debilitated and are the more susceptible 

 to disease. 



Now that the cutting bench is ready, 

 the shades made, and extra ventilation 

 in, we are ready to select cuttings. 

 Before proceeding any farther it is well 

 to bear in mind that between the early 

 and late blooming kinds there is some 



four months' difference in time of flower- 

 ing; therefore in order to have blooms 

 from late blooming kinds for the holi- 

 days it will be necessary to commence 

 taking cuttings the last week in October, 

 and so on each month after, until you 

 have a needed supply. 



Tlie early and constant bloomers may 

 be taken in November, December, Janu- 

 ary and February with good results. 

 During these four months cuttings root 

 better, for the reason that the plants are 

 vigorous for not having been forced. In 

 selecting cuttings I would advise taking 

 them from flowering stems. On these 

 stems there may be from one to four 

 cuttings. The upper one will be too 

 weak — leave it — the lower one may be 

 too hard, and if so, leave it. The middle 

 ones, usually strong, are just right. 



With the thumb and inde.x finger take 

 them out sidewise. I would never use 

 the knife on a cutting for the reason 

 that a cutting taken out sidewise has 

 not been wounded and is the better for- 

 tified against the attack of disease by 

 having left on it the tough leaves at its 

 base, and further, I claim such a cutting 

 has one or more well defined joints al- 

 ready formed and will be from three to 

 four weeks in advance of a pulled cut- 

 ting. 



When you have a quantity of cuttings 

 gathered and the sand in the bench well 

 wet through, insert in rows two inches 

 apart, one inch apart in the row and 

 three-quarters of an inch deep. Firm the 

 sand on either side of the cuttings, after 

 which water again to settle the sand. 

 Spray each day after they are set, keep- 

 ing close watch that they are not too 

 wet, also that they do not get too dry 

 along the side of the bench. 



There is this difference between water- 

 ing and spraying. We water to wet the 



