uso 



The Weekly Florists'^ Review* 



Apkil 21, 1904. 



being rather the best all around. They 

 are cutting about 150 a day, some of 

 them four feet long with the flowers 

 proportionately large and covering fully 

 a foot of the stem. Philip Breitmeyer 

 says that at retail they readily bring 

 $3 to $4 a dozen. 



ROSES. 



Seasonable Reminders. 



With warm weather and increased in- 

 tensity of sunshine, young stock will 

 require more attention and care. They 

 should be carefully guarded against any 

 approach to becoming pot bound and, 

 as planting time is also approaching, 

 due calculation should be made to do the 

 potting so that the roots will be at the 

 right stage at benching time. Plants to 

 be in proper planting condition should be 

 at least three weeks in the last shift. 

 This prevents the disastrous effects of 

 having the balls go to pieces during the 

 planting process. 



Watering and syringing must be strict- 

 ly and frequently attended to, so as to 

 prevent the tender roots from being in- 

 jured by the strong sunshine. 



It is rare to find a house in which 

 there are no defects in the glass, and 

 these are certain to cause blistering of 

 the tender leaves if not attended to. 

 These defects should be located as early 

 in the season as possible, as burns caused 

 by them have a very debilitating effect. 

 Select a bright day when the burning 

 spots can be most easily detected, and 

 touch them with either a solution of 

 alum or very thin white lead and oil. 

 It does not require a big splotch of 



paint, which is very unsightly, to remedy 

 these defects. 



Beauty foliage, even on the old plants 

 is very liable to become blotched and 

 as the most valuable leaves are above the 

 Mue of sight, much damage may be done 

 before it is noticed if a careful inspec- 

 tion is not practiced. 



Preparations for planting should now 

 be made by getting the soil into the 

 proper condition and having all tools, 

 etc., in good order. The work of that 

 busy season will be greatly expedited by 

 having all supplies, such as lumber, 

 nails and all other necessaries, in stock 

 and in their proper place, so that no time 

 may be wasted in getting the benches 

 repaired, filled and planted. ElBES. 



WALSH'S ROSES. 



One of the accompanying reproductions 

 from photographs shows a portion of the 

 magnificent group of Rambler roses 

 staged at the recent spring exhibition 

 of the Massachusetts Horticultural So- 

 ciety in Boston by M. H. Walsh, Woods 

 Hole, Mass., the other a well bloomed 

 plant of the variety Lady Gay. The 

 latter is a seedling from Crimson Ram- 

 bler and is of a delicate cherry pink 

 color, foliage glossy and deep green. All 

 the varieties shown in this remarkable 

 group were of Mr. Walsh's own raising 

 and attest his wonderful kill as a rose 

 hybridizer. We hope Mr. Walsh may be 

 able to put up a similar group in 1905, 

 when the American Rose Society comes to 

 Boston. Some of the varieties shown 

 will be very popular as Easter plants 

 when better known. In the way of foliage 

 they are mostly superior to Crimson Ram- 

 bler. 'W. N. Craig. 





SeedUng Rambler Rose Lady Gay, Raised by M. H. Walsh, Woods Hole, Mass. 



POT GROWN CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



[An essay by George B. Windier, read before 

 tbe St. Louis Florists' Club, April 14, 1904.] 



When I took upon myself the task 

 of writing an essay on pot grown chry- 

 santhemums I knew that there are men 

 in our club who are more able to do so 

 than I am. I also knew that some will 

 think my effort is of little value; never- 

 theless I felt at that time, and I feel 

 that way now, that every member of an 

 organization or club like ours should 

 endeavor to do something along these 

 lines to bring on discussion and in that 

 way exchange ideas. That, in my opin- 

 ion, is what we are organized for. If 

 the ideas of an essayist are faulty or not 

 practical, then the members, who, by ex- 

 perience or some other channel, know bet- 

 ter, should criticise and criticise freely. 

 That is what brings life into our meet- 

 ings. 



As we grow chrysanthemums in pots, 

 naturally we have no bench plants to 

 take cuttings from. We keep a few pot 

 plants, as many as we need, of each 

 variety for stock. These are cut down 

 to the ground and the young sprouts that 

 appear by this time are cleaned off, that 

 is, all bad leaves are removed. Then 

 they are put into a house with a tem- 

 perature of about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. 

 By January we have a crop of cuttings 

 to take off, which we usually dip into 

 tobacco water to kill those little black 

 bugs which every chrysanthemum grower 

 knows. 



Root them in clean sand with a tem- 

 perature of about 60 degrees. This first 

 batch of cuttings is the best one to grow 

 in pots all summer, if you grow them 

 that way. When rooted start them in 

 2-inch pots in about the same tempera- 

 ture. When they are well established 

 you can place them in a cold frame. 

 From then on, shift and pinch out as 

 they need it. As soon as all danger of 

 frost is past, plunge them out into the 

 open ground. Have them in their flower- 

 ing pots by the first of August. On 

 about this date they should also be 

 pinched the last time. 



Keep them growing there until the 

 buds show, then remove them to the 

 greenhouse. Plants grown in this way 

 are handled much easier, as far as sup- 

 ports are concerned, than those grown 

 in the field. A plant in a 6-inch pot 

 grown this way can be supported with 

 four canes (bamboo canes we use) en- 

 circled with silkaUne very nicely; where- 

 as with field grown plants you will need 

 a cane for nearly every flower stem to 

 get the plant into a symmetrical shape. 

 Disbud as soon as you can handle the 

 buds. Plenty of water, good ventilation 

 and a light house are essential to the 

 growing of good pot plant chrysanthe- 

 mums. After their buds show, liquid 

 feeding about every ten days is beneficial. 

 On most varieties you must discontinue 

 feeding when they show color. 



For chrysanthemums grown in the field 

 for pot plants the young stock is 

 handled practically the same way as those 

 grown in pots all summer; the one dif- 

 ference is that you can take a very 

 young or small plant at planting-out time, 

 so long as it is healthy, and still get 

 quite a large plant by the time you want 

 to lift them, which should be done no 

 later than September 1. 



Keep the soil in the field well pul- 

 verized by cultivating frequently and 

 pinch back as they need it until the be- 

 ginning of August. When lifted they 

 should be shaded until root action be- 



