THE FLORIST. 



135 



day or two, and with a sharp knife remove, with a clean slanting cut, 

 the shoot or branch above the buds back quite close to them, the 

 lower part of the cut to be under the base of the young shoots. In 

 the absence of cloudy weather, it should be done early in the morning 

 or late in the evening ; and tie a little damp moss over the cut, which 

 greatly assists the process of granulation. In stormy weather, with 

 the moss tied over the cut, the wound soon heals, when all fear of the 

 buds being blown out is at an end. 



July and August are very good months for budding Roses, when 

 it is intended to keep the buds dormant. As to the precise time, 

 that entirely depends upon the state of the stocks and buds. For 

 buds intended to break the same season, the earlier the better ; and 

 to make them break successfully and quickly very prominent buds 

 should be employed ; to obtain which, select strong healthy shoots 

 of the sorts required a week or ten days before they are wanted, and 

 take off their tops. The buds below will swell very fast ; and when 

 they are about to start, take them off and insert them. It is gene- 

 rally recommended to take the buds from the plant and insert them 

 directly ; but this is not always practicable, for they are often ob- 

 tained from a distance. To bear carriage, they should be packed in 

 wet moss. I have often preserved buds in good condition ten days 

 or a fortnight, after travelling per coach 50 or 60 miles, by placing 

 their ends in a dish or tub of water, about an inch deep, in a shady 

 and very cool room, or an airy, light, underground cellar, and then 

 sprinkling them two or three times a day ; and, unless they were in- 

 jured in carriage, I have found they have grown as well at the end of 

 a fortnight as when first received. After the buds have been in about 

 three weeks, the bast, worsted, or cotton used for tying, should be 

 taken off, and put on again rather slacker. 



A B, the young shoots from 

 the stock in which the buds 

 are inserted atC. To force the 

 buds to break, cut off A B 

 at D ; the eyes will break at 

 E and F, and must be topped 

 at G, which will check the 

 sap, and throw it to the buds 

 at C. thereby causing them to 

 start off, if they have not be- 

 fore. When they have grown 

 four or five inches, they must 

 be topped at H. The eyes 

 in the branch above will break 

 again below G, and must be 

 topped again at I, &c. The 

 dotted lines indicate where, 

 and the direction in which, 

 the branches should be se- 

 vered in July, being as near 

 the Rose-shoots at C as pos- 

 sible. 



Tody. 



