THE FLORIST. 299 



stronger roots, but merely strip my fingers through them in order 

 to remove those that are decayed. The pots should be just suffi- 

 ciently large to receive the bulb and strong roots adhering to it; give 

 a moderate watering to settle the soil, and place them in the green- 

 house or a cool pit. They will require no further attention until the 

 season begins to excite vegetation, when they must be regularly 

 attended to. Water as soon as you see signs of growth, but spar- 

 ingly until they have made leaves, &c. to draw up and give off mois- 

 ture. March will generally be found to be the time when they will 

 commence growth. As soon as they are above the soil, remove them 

 to a situation where they will be near the glass and have plenty of 

 air, for after success depends upon getting them strong at this stage. 

 Do not allow them to remain in the small pots in which they were 

 wintered until their roots become matted ; the best way of managing 

 this is occasionally to examine them. I always shift into the flower- 

 ing-pots just as the plants have protruded an abundance of fresh 

 roots against the sides of the pots. For strong bulbs with one stem 

 use 1 2-inch pots, and for such as produce two stems a size larger. 

 Weaker bulbs, such as produce about seven flowers, will not require 

 pots above eight inches, and offsets of the first year will not require 

 above 5-inch pots. In shifting into the flowering-pots, be careful 

 to place the crown of the bulbs about three inches below the surface 

 of the soil, as they produce a quantity of strong roots from the base 

 of the stem. They ought after potting to occupy a place near the 

 glass ; and avoid a warm house if you wish a strong bloom. As 

 regards watering, they must have a careful supply, neither too much 

 nor too little ; but if they can be sprinkled overhead with the 

 syringe before shutting up the house, they will not require much 

 water at the roots for some time. Towards the end of May, if the 

 weather is favourable, they may be placed in a warm sheltered spot 

 out of doors, and ought to have their stems tied to a stake, in order 

 to prevent their being injured by wind. A few plants may be re- 

 tained in the greenhouse, with a view to have them in flower earlier ; 

 indeed, I place some of my bulbs in a moderately close, warm house 

 early in March, and I manage to have them in flower early in 

 August; others I retard, to prolong their flowering until October; 

 but a season's practice will be the best guide in this matter. These 

 Lilies are not liable to suffer from the attacks of insects, but the 

 green -fly will occasionally make its appearance upon such of the 

 plants as may have been kept over warm. If so, fumigate at once 

 with tobacco-smoke, or wash the leaves with weak tobacco- water. 



I have said nothing about soil, for they are not very particular 

 in this respect. We use fresh fibrous loam and peat in equal por- 

 tions, with a sufficient quantity of sand to render it porous, — if peat 

 cannot be had, use leaf-soil. Some say, however, that the flowers 

 are much higher coloured in peat. The only thing requiring further 

 notice is, to be careful of the flowers when you have got them, — 

 syringing overhead, or a damp stagnant atmosphere, will spoil them, 

 just as it would a light-coloured Camellia flower. I once lost a fine 

 head of bloom in this way. 



