THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



125 



the year. The plants are now out of 

 bloom, and are pushing their new growth ; 

 this new growth will supply the bloom- 

 buds for next season, and the task of the 

 cultivator is to promote that growth, and 

 get it well ripened before the season closes. 

 An excess of light is altogether inimical to 

 the prosperity of Camellias ; hence we see 

 them do well in the old-fashioned dark 

 houses, against which we are apt to level 

 our abuse when comparing them with the 

 structures of the present day. The buds 

 begin to push, indeed, before the bloom is 

 fairly out, and often under disadvantageous 

 ciiTumstances, for the plants may be used 

 to decorate apartments where the air is far 

 too dry for them. In such eases, the 

 foliage should be sprinkled morning and 

 evening, and the roots kept well supplied 

 with water slightly tepid, so as to prevent 

 exhaustion till they can be got back into 

 their proper growing quarters. The fu- 

 ture well-doing of the plants depends en- 

 tirely on the maintenance of a strictly 

 seasonal action ; they will not break and 

 bloom at any season, like geraniums and 

 other soft-wooded plants, but must have 

 their time of quick growth, and a long 

 season of comparative rest. Therefore 

 they cannot be too soon encouraged to 

 grow after having bloomed ; and a moist 

 atmosphere, and a temperature averaging 

 65" by day and 55" by night, with plenty 

 of air, and shade from sunshine, are essen- 

 tial to success. In such a temperature, 

 and with free ventilation, the Camellia will 

 make rapid and healthy growth if fre- 

 quently syringed and kept very moist at 

 the root. Drought at this season is ruin 

 to it ; if the floor and walls are deluged 

 with water, so as to keep the atmosphere 

 saturated with moisture, the growth will 

 be more luxuriant and healthy. As soon 

 as the foliage is well expanded, and the 

 bloom-buds begin to show at the points of 

 the shoots, give more air and less water ; 

 and at the end of June, or early in July, 

 turn them out under a north wall on to a 

 bed of coal- ashes, to ripen the wood. A 

 moderate amount of sun will be good for 

 them from this time to the end of the sea- 

 son, but it should not reach them after 

 eleven in the morning, or before four 

 in the afternoon. If the pots are half 

 plunged, they will require less attention 

 in watering, but will still be benefited 

 by an occasional syringing to keep the 

 foliage clean and healthy, and must still 

 be kept moderately moist at the root. 



Repotting. — This is usually per- 

 formed at the time they are turned out to 

 ripen the seasonal growth. Aa a rule, 



Camellias do not like to be disturbed 

 at the root, and when well potted in the 

 first instance, may remain in the same 

 pots for several years in succession if regu- 

 larly refreshed with top-dressings. Plants 

 that are not doing well should be re- 

 potted, in order to excite fresh root-action, 

 and the increase in the size of the plants 

 will also render increased root-room ne- 

 cessary. As we do not expect to shift 

 them frequently, as we do soft-wooded 

 plants, and as excess of pot-room is an 

 injury, the potting should be performed 

 witli care. The Camellia likes a deep, 

 rich soil, and if potted with the abundance 

 of drainage-material generally used ibr 

 Ericas and Epacrises, will never thrive. 

 Young plants, indeed, soon get poor if their 

 roots ramble among potsherds, which are 

 the delight of most heaths : and the 

 drainage should be made sure, with as few 

 crocks as possible. The chief points to be 

 observed in potting Camellias are, to use 

 the compost very rough and lumpy ; to 

 pot them as firm as possible ; to give 

 them very small shifts, for unless they 

 quickly fill the pots with roots, the soil 

 will get sour and water-logged, and it will 

 be impossible for the plants to prosper ; 

 and never to shift at all imless you are 

 sure they require it. Choose new pots of 

 one size larger than those the plants are 

 to be removed from. Soak them in water 

 a few hours, and meanwhile prepare some 

 clean crocks and nodules of charcoal of the 

 size of hazel-nuts. Put over the hole in 

 the pot a good-sized concave piece of tile, 

 or if the pots are large use the smallest- 

 sized unglazed flower-pot saucers inverted, 

 as a foundation. Over this strew a few 

 crocks, then a layer of charcoal, and then 

 some lumps of very fibrous peat, or tough 

 turf that has been stacked some time. Turn 

 outtheplants without breaking the balls,and 

 examine them well to see if the roots are 

 healthy. Beyond removing the old crocks, 

 you will seldom find it necessary to disturb 

 the root in any way; but if the ball is hard, 

 and become impervious to water, slightly 

 loosen it round the sides with a sharp stick, 

 and remove some of the old soil by lowering 

 the ball into a pail of water, and moving it 

 up and down gently till some of it has fallen 

 out. Having got them into the new pots, 

 ram the compost in all round as hard as 

 you can with a thin wooden rammer, but be 

 careful in doing so not to bruise the roots. 

 By this firm system of potting an immense 

 quantity of sod can be got into the pots for 

 the roots to feed upon, and two or three 

 years may elapse before the plants will 

 want shifting again. They cau never 



