120 THE FLORIST AND POMOLOaiST. [MAY, 



the trees, but it is safer not to remove them altogether until all fear of danger 

 from frost is over. Gardeners will not soon forget the memorable frost of the 

 19th and 20th of May last year, which did such injury to the crops. Attend 

 to the disbudding of Peaches and Nectarines^ removing but few shoots at a 

 time ; give the trees a good syringing occasionally. — M. Saul, Stourton, Yorli. 



VEGETABLES. 

 With May comes in the gardener's busiest season, especially in regard to 

 the cultivation of Vegetables. The many kinds of seeds sown early last month 

 will, ere this, have pushed through the ground and be coming forward, and the 

 operation of moulding up and hoeing between them, must be performed as quickly 

 as possible, the plants being large enough to admit of having the hoe passed 

 among them without injury. Not only is it necessary to mould them up or hoe 

 them as a protection against frosts and cold winds, but the operation also 

 assumes importance from the fact that moving the soil around the plants tends 

 to strengthen the roots, by increasing its mellowness, and by facilitating the 

 action of fresh air, of the dews of heaven, &c. Therefore earth up liber- 

 ally all crops which require this aid, and do not stint in any way the 

 free use of the hoe. I will add a few suggestions which may be acted 

 upon as the month wears away. In the first week main crops of Turnips 

 may be got in by sowing these and Turnip Radishes alternately in drills, a few 

 inches apart ; the Eadishes will be fit to draw before they at all discommode the 

 Turnips, and will afford food for the turnip or black-fly when too old for 

 use, which is a matter of some importance during dry periods. Radishes 

 should be sown at intervals of about a fortnight, wherever it is necessary 

 to have a constant supply both tender and good. Stake Peas as the plants 

 require this aid, and sow successional crops as soon as those of tbe former 

 sowino-s are well through the ground. Make two successional sowings of 

 Dwarf French Beans in a warm sunny aspect. Tomatos, Capsicuvis or Chillis^ 

 and any early Beans in boxes, should be placed under cold frames to become 

 hardened preparatory to planting them out about the end of the second or third 

 week, tilting the lights well at the back, and giving all the air possible by night, 

 without running undue risk of frost. Transplant early Savoys^ Broccoli, 

 Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, &c., when large enough, taking advantage 

 of any warm showery or cloudy weather wherein to do so. Transplant also 

 Parsley and Herbs of sorts as soon as they are "fit to handle," especially 

 Sweet Basil, Pot Marjoram, &c., which delight to have a nice bottom- 

 heat. A bed of fermenting materials should be formed in a sunken space 

 whereon to " prick out " the main sowing of Celery, as the plants become suf- 

 ficiently large so to do. Should a dry interval set in at this juncture, the water- 

 pot must be kept freely at work at eventide, or in the early morning. The latter 

 is the better, as the crops are then enabled to dry somev/hat ere night comes on, 

 and with it, perhaps, a great decrease of temperature. The necessity which 

 will exist to water freely at such a time is obvious, when we take into considera- 

 tion how very superficial the root capacity of seedling plants is at this date, and 

 how very quickly the sun parches the surface of the soil. 



Ridge Cucumhers, Gherkins, and Vegetable Marrows should be potted off, and 

 placed in a position where they will become properly hardened, without in any 

 great degree checking their growth. Cucuvibers and Melons may be grown with 

 far greater freedom now than a month or two previously. Just place a little 

 sweet fermenting material into a pit, or in a heap neatly under a box-frame, and 

 adding soil to the surface, turn the plants out therein. Less artificial heat and 

 more air are now needed. — William Earley, Valentines. 



