26 THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST, [February. 



mixed in tlie soil wlien digging. Supposing tlie soil to be naturally of tliis kind, 

 let it be trenclied two-spit deep, keeping tlie best and mellowest of it about a foot 

 from the surface. If tbe soil is unfavourable, it is best to remove it altogether 

 to the depth of two feet, replacing it vrith the best strong loam that can be obtained. 

 If the soil be prepared late in summei', the end of October may be chosen as the 

 season for planting. Secure a sufficient number of strong, healthy plants of the most 

 appropriate sorts. "When planting cut out all suckers, and shorten injured roots 

 (if any) with a sharp knife ; plant carefully, spreading the roots so that those 

 Clearest the ground-level are at least two inches under the surface ; next fill in 

 the interstices with well-pulverised earth, treading the soil firmly over the roots 

 after covering in. After planting, each plant should be tied to a neat stake 

 in order to protect it from the action of the wind, and if the ground can at 

 the same time be covered with stable litter, so much the better. All is now 

 finished and safe till spring. 



In March prune (see Pruning), and as the dormant eyes push forth, rub out 

 one here and there, that the shoots may not crowd each other when fully 

 developed. If the spring be dry, water freely through the growing season, using 

 weak liquid manure, if readily accessible. The manure with which the ground 

 was covered when planting in autumn, should be dug in when pruning is finished, 

 and the ground should be hoed occasionally during the growing and blooming 

 season, that it may be kept in a loose state. So soon as the flower-buds are 

 clearly formed, reduce their number by nipping out with the finger and thumb 

 any weakly backward buds or malformations, which will increase the size of the 

 more perfect ones which are allowed to remain. 



The extent to which this practice of disbudding should be carried will 

 depend, on (1) the nature of the variety, or (2) whether it is trusses or single flowers 

 which are to be exhibited. There are some varieties — La Eeine and Souvenir 

 de Malmaison, for example — whose flowers are so large and full that they expand 

 with difficulty ; such require little thinning, and with such it is sometimes well 

 to remove the strongest flower-buds, especially in the first or summer flowering, 

 relying on the secondary cr intermediate buds. There are other varieties, beauti- 

 ful of their kind, whose flowers are small and thinly set with petals; such are greatly 

 improved by thinning early with an unsparing hand. I am here taking extremes ; 

 of course there are intermediate flowers, the precise treatment of which a little 

 experience will disclose. As to whether trusses or single flowers are required : if 

 the former, thin sparingly, if the latter, freely, as it is not well to calculate on 

 more than a single flower from the same stem. 



The grower for exhibition will hardly come near the top of the tree as a 

 prize-taker, unless he grows largely, and to some extent buds his own stocks. 

 Certain sorts of roses throw finer blooms from the single shoot that pushes the 

 first year from the dormant bud, than from any other source. Hence, it is 

 important with the exhibitor to have at least some stocks planted and budded 

 where they may remain to bloom. 



