66 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



pits "with the aid of an abundant supply of fermenting material. 

 But in a small garden, where the appliances are of a less costly 

 nature, tlie first week in March is early enough, for the bed is then 

 considerably aided by sun-heat, and very much trouble is saved in 

 the nursing of the young plants. The seed may be sown in pots and 

 pans, but the bed is far preferable as producing stronger plants and 

 occasioning far less trouble. Sow the melon seeds in rows six inches 

 asunder, and the seeds three inches apart in tlie rows. When they 

 are fairly up, and show the leader fairly rising, pinch out the point 

 to compel the formation of two or three side-shoots in place of 

 one leader. With careful watering and ventilating, if the heat con- 

 tinues steady, they will advance nicely, and soon become thrifty 

 plants, ready for transference to the bed in which they are to fruit. 

 The plants should be in the fruiting-bed within four weeks at 

 least from the date of the sowing of the seed. We have in favour- 

 able seasons planted out within three weeks, but it is not well to 

 move them until they are somewhat stocky. 



It must here be observed that melons are usually grown in 

 pots until ready for the fruiting-bed, and there can be no objection 

 to the practice where there are skilful hands to carry it out. But 

 the risks are many in pot-culture, as compared with the plan we 

 recommend, and the bed system occasions less trouble. It is not at 

 all uncommon to find young melon-plants in pots quite beset with 

 red spider, owing to a little irregularity or neglect in air-giving and 

 watering, whereas, when grown in a bed from the first, it is alto- 

 gether unusual for fly or spider to touch them, for they are robust 

 in growth, rooting freely, and if the bed should get a little dry, 

 they do not soon feel it. Another remark must be made as to 

 pinching out the point of the leader. When raised in pots, it is 

 well not to stop them at all until they have been planted out at least 

 a week, and then if they are stopped they make a nice growth from 

 the lower eyes, and soon spread over the hillocks. But when raised 

 in a bed they are so strong from the first that the stopping may be 

 done earlier, and the result will be a gain of time in the formation 

 of fruiting wood. 



The Ieuiting-bed should be got ready in time, and should be 

 formed with a good body of manure, that has been two or three 

 times turned, with good capacious frames to cover it. When melon 

 growing begins in January, the fruiting-bed will require to be lined 

 as the heat declines, to m.aintain a proper temperature ; but if we 

 begin in March, sun-heat will finish the crop, if it is well started 

 with a big sound bed of stable manure, that has been in some degree 

 fermented, so as to produce a sweet and steady heat. In a sunless 

 season, however, the heat must be kept up by linings, for the melon 

 requires a bottom-heat ranging from 70° to 90°, and an atmospheric 

 temperature of 65° to 80°, with a rise of 10° during sunshine. 



The usual way of ridging-out is to form a hollow in the bed in 

 the centre of each light, and fill these to the surface with brickbats, 

 or hollow tiles ; then cover with a turf, grass side downwards, and 

 make a smallish hill of soil for the plants. The next thing is to put 

 out two plants to every light, give a little water, and keep rather 



