320 THE PLORAL AVOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



weeds. "When the tops turn yellow, tliey should be pulled up, and, after lying a 

 few days on the surface to ripen, be stored away in a cdol and dry place. 



" PROPAGATiNri Gnaphalium lanatum. — S. JST. — Cuttings of this useful edging 

 plant ought to have been struck in August ; but you can put them in now witli 

 every chance of success. They will strike in a cold frame or under a bell-glass 

 in your greenhouse, but with a mild bottom-heat they will root much quicker. 

 Treat exactly as you would verbenas, and if you place the young plants in warmth 

 early in the spring, you will be able to have any quantity of cuttings. 



Building axd Planting Garde.v Walls. — IF. G. F. — The wall can be built 

 nine inches in thickness, with piers about every six feet, or fourteen inches in 

 thickness without piers. There is very little difl'erence in the expense, and in the 

 last-mentioned wall you will have a flat surface for training on both sides. It is 

 impossible to train trees in a creditable manner with piers every six feet, and con- 

 eidering the cost incurred in the erection of a substantial wall, both sides ought to 

 be made the most of. With respect to the cost of enclosing two acres of garden 

 with a wall twelve feet high, you had better obtain an estimate from a respectable 

 builder residing in your neighbourhood. We should plant principally peaches and 

 nectarines on the south aspect, with a few early cherries and pears ; on the west 

 aspect, pears ; on the east, apricots, with a few early plums ; whilst the north aspect 

 will grow good Morello cherries and plums. It is not well to grow too many 

 peaches and nectarines, for they last in season such a short time. We should 

 occupy as much space as possible with pears, for with a judicious selection of varie- 

 ties, they can be had on the table from August until the following spring. We 

 ahould advise you to have a good coping, eitber fixed or movable, lor it will be a 

 wonderful protection to the bloom in spring. 



J'. .4. 5.— The specimen was dried up, and, consequently, we are unable to 

 identify it. 



Storinc Filberts. — M. B. — There is no better way of preserving filberts than 

 to put them into glazed earihern jars, which have tight-fitting lids. They should 

 be put in with their husks on, in a quite dry state, the jars should be quite full, 

 the lids should fit close, and the proper place for the jars is in a store-closet in a 

 dry room. 



Wintering Caladiums. — S. S.—li they are still growing, dry the plants off 

 as soon as you can with safety. When the foliage is nearly or quite dead, lay the 

 pots on their sides in a warm corner of the stove ; a temperature of 50° is the 

 lowest that you must keep them in through the winter ; ten degrees higher would 

 be better, as we have repeatedly proved. Let the tubers remain in the pots until 

 you start them. If you are short of room, you can shake them out of the pots, 

 and place the tubers in smaller pots, and then fill up with dry sand. They will do 

 either way, provided they are kept dry. 



Shriveiled Grapes. — Amatewr Orape Groicer. — The fault of your grapes h, 

 that at a certain stage their growth is arrested and they then become unsightlj'. 

 We have no hesitation in tracing the cause to the roots of the vines, and the 

 remedy will be found in a renewal of the roots, and an improvement of their con- 

 dition. It is highly probable that the vines are in a damp, cold border, and that, 

 in consequence, the roots are not able to keep pace with the demands upon them by 

 the leaves of the vine ; aud thus, the supply of sap being restricted, it is impos- 

 sible for the fruit to swell to proper dimensions. Knowing nothing of the circum- 

 stances in which the vines are placed, we can only remark upon tliecase in this 

 general way, and advise our correspondent to consider how to place the roots in a 

 condition more likely to favour the full development and ripening of the crop. 



Wintering Canna Roots. — 4 Young Oardener. — You can take them up, and 

 store in a cellar or outhouse, or under the greenhouse stage. In either case, keep 

 them from getting wet, and put a little dry soil or sand over them, to prevent 

 their becoming dried up. You can also allow them to remain in the beds where 

 they are now growing, without any danger of losing them, if you prefer to do so. 

 The beds must be covered with some kind of protecting material, to prevent the 

 irost getting to them. I^ong litter, cocoa-nut refuse, or dry leaves are all good. 

 We, however, prefer the latter. Lay them on the bed a foot or eighteen inches in 

 depth, and cover with soil to a depth of about four inches. If you leave them in 

 the ground, you will be perfectly astonished at the growth thej'- will make next 

 season. 



