THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 91 



already done. Pot herbs may now be sown and propagated by divisions, offsets 

 and slips, and fresh beds planted. The soil should be in a dry workable condition 

 when the various crops are sown and planted; it is far better to wait a few days 

 than to tread upon the ground when in a wet pasty condition. 



Fruit Garden.— Pruning and training must be completed, and grafting set 

 about in earnest. Cuttings of Gooseberries and Currants may still be put in with 

 every reasonable chance of success. Burn all the prunings of trees and the clip- 

 pings of hedges, for they only litter up the place, and the ashes are first rate f->r 

 spreading over the onion beds. Raspberry quarters must not be pricked over in the 

 same way as the other bush fruits, but must have a good mulch instead. "Wall trees 

 coming into bloom must be protected. Nets, tiffany, or fir branches can be used for 

 protecting purposes ; the first two are the best. 



Pits and Frames. — Auriculas, Pansies, Carnations, and others of the same 

 class, must have plenty of air, for it ruins them to be kept in a close atmosphere. 

 Propagate as fast as possible all kinds of bedding plants, more particularly Ver- 

 benas, Lobelias, Iresene, Heliotropes, and Petunias. Encourage the stock plants, 

 and top and pot off those already struck. Bedding Calceolarias should be turned 

 out into a bed of rich soil, about four inches apart, and covered with old light straw 

 hurdles, or mats. They will do better when planted out, treated this way, than they 

 ■will if the roots are cramped in pots. Sow Amarauthus melancholicus, Phlox Drum- 

 mondi, and Tagetes signata pumila, for bedding. In cold frame sow Asters, Stocks, 

 and Larkspurs. Pot off those sown early, for they soon get ruined if allowed to 

 remain long crowded together. 



Forcing. — Air-giving must be attended to with care during the whole of this 

 month, in all the departments. We have such sudden changes, that unless it is attended 

 to at the right moment, a lot of mischief is soon done. Sow seed of Cucumbers for 

 summer crops ; stop and train those in bearing. Recently planted ones, as the roots 

 show through the soil, should be earthed up with fresh soil. Pines in fruit to have 

 a bottom heat of 85°, with a top heat of from 75° to 85", according to the weather. 

 Syringe the surface of the bed, walls, and paths, but do not allow the water to run 

 into the hearts. Succession plants and suckers should have a general potting this 

 month, and a renewal of the tan bed, etc. More water will now be required. Vines 

 in flower must have rather a drier atmosphere, but not so parching as is generally 

 advised. Disbud, train, and thin out the bunches as required. After the fruit is set 

 keep a thoroughly moist atmosphere, and paint the pipes with sulphur to prevent red 

 spider making its appearance. Slightly increase the temperature, and stop one or 

 two eyes beyond the bunch. Figs must have plenty of water at the root and syring- 

 ing over head, cut off suckers, and pinch over-luxuriant shootes. Peaches and 

 Nectarines as they go out of bloom must be well syringed to clear them of the dead 

 flowers ; also raise the temperature to 50°. Disbub and thin the fruit a few at a 

 time. Plums and Cherries will require plenty of air, and moisture at the root. 

 Strawberries as they begin to colour should have less water, and be exposed more 

 freely to the light and air. Sow Melon seed and plant out as soon as strong enough, 

 see that the fermenting materials are in a nice sweet condition. 



Club in the Brassica Tribe. — In light soils this is an intolerable pest, and 

 subjects many gardeners to great inconvenience. In strong, retentive soils it very 

 rarely intrudes. It is excessively annoying, after good plantations of broccoli' 

 Brussels sprouts, kail, collards, etc., for the winter and spring have been planted 

 six weeks or two months to find their progress arrested, and the plants drooping and 

 dying, especially should the season be getting late for planting these crops. Now I 

 am one of those who believe that for every evil there is an antidote ; and the one 

 that I have proved to be efficacious in preventing the club is to make a puddle of 

 strong clay, using or working up the clay into a puddle with liquid manure, adding 

 a handful or two of soot ; this should be well stirred and incorporated, and of good 

 consistency, so that when the roots of the plants are drawn through it they will be 

 as it were encased or covered as with mortar. If the plants are (after the material 

 has set or become somewhat firm) drawn through the puddle two or three times 

 successively, so much the better. I have tried this remedy on soils very subject to 

 produce club with the most satisfactory results. Homo Veritas. 



Lee, Kent. 



